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Author Topic: HPF Air Code  (Read 1690 times)
APORTO
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« on: July 11, 2012, 10:31:18 AM »

Hi All,
I've seen a few topics on HPF codes which indicate issues with sea water.  Common solutions are bleeding lines, changing teflon impeller, and 1 case of replaceing the entire pump.  My situation is more of an annoyance; after a few days, I find the cabin HOT and the AC has an HPF code.  I turn the AC control to off, wait 2 seconds, and turn it back on.  Issue is fixed for 24+ hours or so.  Once corrected, I see plenty of water is flowing.  Could it be a sensor?  Does anyone know where the AC sea water sensor is located?  Also, how hot should the sea water pump get?  Mine is always hot to the touch.  and Lastly, when I leave for the week, I change the AC setting to moisture.  Do people use this setting or keep the AC running all night?
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'05 34 PC Merc 8.1HO
North Side of Long Island Sound
APORTO
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« Reply #1 on: July 11, 2012, 10:33:36 AM »

Unlike the windless, I made sure the AC sysem is getting power  Smiley
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'05 34 PC Merc 8.1HO
North Side of Long Island Sound
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« Reply #2 on: July 11, 2012, 10:47:30 AM »

An HPF error is not a "sea water" error.  It is a High Freon Pressure Alert.  That said, it is usually caused by an inadequate water supply so checking the pump is the correct procedure.  However, there is no sea water sensor.  It is a pressure sensor located on the high side of the refrigerant compressor.  It is probably not bad.  Make sure the pump is not getting too hot and shutting down.  Mine gets warm to the touch but not hot.  Also make sure there are no restrictions in the water feed line causing the pump to run hot or restricting water flow.  Check the hose for softness just to confirm that it does not kink when the pump is pulling water.  Make sure the strainer or intake is not clogged.

BTW, I use the "Moisture Mode" all the time when I leave the boat on a Sunday and won't be back for a few days without any issues.
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2006 40 pc w/IPS, South Shore, LI, NY
APORTO
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« Reply #3 on: July 11, 2012, 11:37:30 AM »

Thanks G27,
I see plenty of water flowing from the outlet, but will give the hoses a check.  Strainer has been cleaned.  The pump is concerning because while I can hold my hand against it without being uncomfortable, I bet my 12 year old would not be able to do it.  Is it possible it just needs a recharge?  I assume although the codes stand for freon, freon is not actually used?.  Thanks.
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'05 34 PC Merc 8.1HO
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« Reply #4 on: July 11, 2012, 12:05:41 PM »

You're right.  Freon (R-12) is no longer used.  I used the word freon to mean refrigerant.  I believe that the refrigerant that is currently used is R-113a.  I don't believe that your A/C needs a recharge.  IMO you would not be getting a HPF error if your refrigerant level was low.  According to Marine Airrrr if the problem persists you can try the following (directly from the manual):

"If problem persists, reprogram Low Fan Speed Limit for maximum value. Set P-2 to
64, and set the reverse fan speeds during Heating Mode parameter P-12 to ?rEF", or
manually set fan speed to high."


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2006 40 pc w/IPS, South Shore, LI, NY
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« Reply #5 on: July 11, 2012, 01:48:02 PM »

Thanks G27, while trying to locate the manuals on-line, I found a link where it was suspected that a faulty sea pump was overheating and shutting down, stopping water flow and triggering an HPF code.  Since I am experiencing a very hot pump, this could be my issue as well.  I will try to reprogram this season and wait until the winter to replace the sea pump if issue continues.  Thank you
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http://marine-ac.com/forum/troubleshooting/hpf-and-does-my-pump-have-an-overheat-circuit/
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'05 34 PC Merc 8.1HO
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« Reply #6 on: July 11, 2012, 01:55:04 PM »

Remember...that PERHAPS and I say PERHAPS you are getting a temp clog in your intake cooling.  The unit gets super hot, shuts down...you lose suction, seaweed, bag, etc. falls off the intake grate and then when you restart all is well.

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2008 31PC - Twin 496 Mag w/BIII Drives
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« Reply #7 on: July 11, 2012, 04:51:39 PM »

Too Fast, I wish that were the issue, but it seems to happen 1/week after long periods and always while docked.  Wouldn't picking up a bag or seaweed be more likely while traveling?  I found the manual Group27 referenced and am posting here for any who require it:
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http://www.dometic.com/FileOrganizer/1-international/Operation%20&%20Installation%20Manuals/Marine%20Air%20Air%20Conditioning/L-2230-Elite-Control-DX.pdf
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I'll try setting the Low Fan Speed to 64 as described on page 16.  I shouldn't have to change the heat setting (reverse fan speed) since we are in the summer.  If that doesn't correct the issue, I'll look at replacing the Cal pump with a March during the off season.  Thank You All.
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« Reply #8 on: July 11, 2012, 04:54:41 PM »

I only mentioned this as I've "sucked" up bags/seaweed while in Marina's many a time, but you are correct, it seems unlikely...but it could be a possibility.

In order to test the fan setting, I would set MUCH HIGHER than 64...in talking with them the MIN should be in the mid-50's...perhaps try keeping on HIGH at all times and see if that gives you enough airflow to keep her running.  Then you could begin to lower, etc.
« Last Edit: July 11, 2012, 04:59:24 PM by toofast » Logged

2008 31PC - Twin 496 Mag w/BIII Drives
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« Reply #9 on: July 11, 2012, 05:55:34 PM »

HIGH PRESSURE MEANS LACK OF COOLING OF THE CONDENSER. IF PUMP IS RUNNING, AND PUMPING WATER OUT THE THRU HULL, TRY BACK FLUSHING THE SYSTEM.
DISCONNECT THE HOSE THAT GOES TO THE OCTOPUS FITTING IN YOUR ENGINE ROOM FROM THE A/C, AND FLUSH BACKWARDS THRU THE STRAINER AND PUMP TO THE OUTSIDE OF THE BOAT. LEAVE RUN FOR AT LEAST 5 MINUTES. ITS AMAZING THE AMOUNT OF SILT AND SAND THAT CAN ACCUMULATE IN THE SYSTEM.
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2005 Formula 37PC (doghouse III)
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« Reply #10 on: July 11, 2012, 06:28:56 PM »

 Is it possible that there is scaling build up on the inside of the lines??? Backflushing would clear it out but does anyone know how often you should backflush the system?
I leave the AC on 24/7, as soon as I unhook and go out of the dock I run it on generator. It's always on. Anyone have a recommended backflush procedure? What to open or close when doing it?
Clueless
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« Reply #11 on: July 11, 2012, 09:46:28 PM »

Go to Barnacle Buster . com and you will see the suggested device.

That said, are you in fresh, brachish or salt water?
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Group27
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« Reply #12 on: July 11, 2012, 11:43:40 PM »

Go to Barnacle Buster . com and you will see the suggested device.

I personally would recommend the nuclear cleaning tools  Grin Grin Grin
« Last Edit: July 11, 2012, 11:50:24 PM by Group27 » Logged

2006 40 pc w/IPS, South Shore, LI, NY
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« Reply #13 on: July 12, 2012, 12:58:46 AM »

LOL 27, at $60.00 per gallon it might be cheaper to go nuke!! I guess I need 6 gallons of concentrate for engines and AC lines. I'm in salt water. Are there alternative products or home brews that work?
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2001 400SS 496 mag HO BIIIX
JayW
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« Reply #14 on: July 12, 2012, 02:08:12 AM »

I am an air conditioning tech.  freon was actually a manufacturer of refrigerant.  r12 was replaced with r134a refrigerant.  this was automotive.  commercial and residential ac was R22 which is now being replaced with r410a.  yes, a high pressure fault is lack of heat rejection causing high refrigerant pressure on the high side of the system.  check your raw water and your condenser and make sure you are getting good flow.  yes, backflush as your condenser is probably getting plugged and you are not getting good heat transfer.  you should be getting a good rise in water temp through the condenser.
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jayw  2007 31 pc  Vancouver Canada twin 496mag bravo III
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