Ok so 1st time boat owner here with basic questions


B

butkusrules

New member
My brothers and I bought a 2001 Formula 34 PC in June with approximately 340hrs on it. The boat has two I/O 7.4L MPI Mecruisers with Bravo III drives. The boat is in Chicago on Lake Michigan and was there before we bought it. I am putting the boat into heated indoor storage for the winter. What do I need to do? I've come across varying opinions. Anyway, does anybody have must do checklist,a recommended checklist and a don't waste your money checklist? ???
 
Well you are NOT going to like my answer.

Heated or not Heated to me has little bearing on HOW you winterize. Ok, so maybe you can cheat on ONE THING (i.e. freshwater system) Below is everything that I do.

Keep fuel low for Ethanol
Add Fuel Stabilizer to Gas Tanks
Change Sterndrive oil
Change Engine Oil
Replace Oil Filters
Run Engine on Muffs until 160 degrees
Once warm run on fuel fog for 5 minutes on muffs - then switch to antifreeze
Switch to antifreeze in jug till pink comes out of engine - kill engine
Charge Engine Drain Plug System and Purge
Grease all fittings
Replace Fuel Filter
Change Generator Oil
Change Generator Oil Filter
Run Antifreeze Through Generator while on fuel potent
Change Generator Fuel Filter
Run Air Conditioner on Antifreeze, till pink out back side
Pump out holding tank
Drain Hot Water Tank
Drain FreshWater Holding Tank
Place Valve on City water, open all faucets and blow out
Make sure anchor washdown is clear of water
Make sure transom washdown is clear of water
Turn on all faucets till no more water - only air
Flush Toilet Multiple times till all air, add AF to Toilet Holding Tank
Make sure accumulator is drained
Blow Water fom Gearcase speedo pickup no more 25psi
Pour antifreeze down shower sump till runs out back end
Suck Shower sumps dry with vac
Empty Bilge with shop vac
Remove Batteries
Wash Boat & Wax Boat
Touch up Outdrives with outdrive paint
Open drain plug and leave out
Close seacocks
Open lockers
Prop Up Cushions
Install anti mildew bags (2)
Empty Interior Shelves of Items that will not last winter
Clean Fridgerator out, leave door cracked open
Empty All Storage Lockers of items that will not last winter or get moldy
 
Formula Tenn said:
toofast, ya forgot "change wiper blades" on that list ;D

that's pretty darn thorough IMO, nice list for reference!
Click to expand...
Ha, yes...that is on my spring list to check though ::)
 
Great list. Although I don't do much of that myself. :(

However, I was always told to top off the fuel tanks.
 
scott7268 said:
Great list. Although I don't do much of that myself. :(

However, I was always told to top off the fuel tanks.
Click to expand...

I would only top off tanks if using non-ethanol fuel...but this is a raging debate. Really up to you.
 
So what's the deal ? Full tanks or empty everyday i get a different opinion. I'm sure the correct answer is out there.
 
Bogie701 said:
So what's the deal ? Full tanks or empty everyday i get a different opinion. I'm sure the correct answer is out there.
Click to expand...

In all my research, I've found these two thoughts being the most agreed upon.

1) Non Ethanol Fuel - tanks full
2) Ethanol Fuel - tanks way empty

But honestly, if you use some kind of fuel stabilizer for the type of fuel you have, then most likely ok either way. Ideally non-ethanol fuel and full tanks is the BEST!
 
Sorry, but I have to disagree with you i.e.,

Preventing Phase Separation Do?s and Don?t?s

http://www.boatus.com/seaworthy/ethanolwinter.asp

DO
Add Stabilizer
Top off the tank (to about 95% full)
Use your boat frequently during the season so that gasoline doesn?t go stale in the tank

DON?T
Leave the boat?s tanks partially filled
Let the boat sit idle for months over the summer.
 
Here in the Northeast we have no option i.e., we can only purchase gasoline that contains 10% Ethanol (E10). As such, keeping the tank nearly full (95%) leaves the least amount of head-space in the fuel tank(s) where moisture can collect resulting in collection of free-water in the bottom of the tank. Once there, it really causes considerable havoc. Adding the correct dose of "Stabil" or some other Ethanol-type Storage Stabilizer and we are good to go.

A few boats in my Marina tried storing there boats with between 1/8 > 1/4 a tank of fuel and it was nothing but a nighmare for them.....
 
Our fuel supplier at our marina is a personal friend, and here is his recomendation.
Fill tanks to 95 percent full, and treat fuel with an additive made for ethanol like startron. He pretreats our fuel before it gets to the marina tanks, so we do not have to do anything. He claims that condensation in an almost empty tank forms when the temperature fluxuates outside. The water in the air condenses, (sweats) and lays on the bottom of the tank.
Hope this helps.
 
toofast said:
Well you are NOT going to like my answer.

Heated or not Heated to me has little bearing on HOW you winterize. Ok, so maybe you can cheat on ONE THING (i.e. freshwater system) Below is everything that I do.

Keep fuel low for Ethanol
Add Fuel Stabilizer to Gas Tanks
Change Sterndrive oil
Change Engine Oil
Replace Oil Filters
Run Engine on Muffs until 160 degrees
Once warm run on fuel fog for 5 minutes on muffs - then switch to antifreeze
Switch to antifreeze in jug till pink comes out of engine - kill engine
Charge Engine Drain Plug System and Purge
Grease all fittings
Replace Fuel Filter
Change Generator Oil
Change Generator Oil Filter
Run Antifreeze Through Generator while on fuel potent
Change Generator Fuel Filter
Run Air Conditioner on Antifreeze, till pink out back side
Pump out holding tank
Drain Hot Water Tank
Drain FreshWater Holding Tank
Place Valve on City water, open all faucets and blow out
Make sure anchor washdown is clear of water
Make sure transom washdown is clear of water
Turn on all faucets till no more water - only air
Flush Toilet Multiple times till all air, add AF to Toilet Holding Tank
Make sure accumulator is drained
Blow Water fom Gearcase speedo pickup no more 25psi
Pour antifreeze down shower sump till runs out back end
Suck Shower sumps dry with vac
Empty Bilge with shop vac
Remove Batteries
Wash Boat & Wax Boat
Touch up Outdrives with outdrive paint
Open drain plug and leave out
Close seacocks
Open lockers
Prop Up Cushions
Install anti mildew bags (2)
Empty Interior Shelves of Items that will not last winter
Clean Fridgerator out, leave door cracked open
Empty All Storage Lockers of items that will not last winter or get moldy
Click to expand...

I love this list, except the way you fill your engine with antifreeze. I much prefer the manual method. It really doesn't take much time and I know all the water is out of the engine. I also only use the -100 antifreeze. The -50 and -60 antifreeze turn to ice(not totally solid) if you put them in your freezer and most freezers are about 0 deg f.
 
Unforgettable said:
Here in the Northeast we have no option i.e., we can only purchase gasoline that contains 10% Ethanol (E10). As such, keeping the tank nearly full (95%) leaves the least amount of head-space in the fuel tank(s) where moisture can collect resulting in collection of free-water in the bottom of the tank. Once there, it really causes considerable havoc. Adding the correct dose of "Stabil" or some other Ethanol-type Storage Stabilizer and we are good to go.

A few boats in my Marina tried storing there boats with between 1/8 > 1/4 a tank of fuel and it was nothing but a nighmare for them.....
Click to expand...

I use In-N-Out indoor rack storage year 'round and we do not top off our tanks. One year, the boat above me topped off tank and since gasoline expands, it spilled fuel over my stern as is came out of his tank vents. That made a nice mess on my boat. I have kept mine 1/4 full every winter in heated rack storage with no problem. Most don't even use stabilizer, but I do...
 
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