Shower sump float switch


S

Suseaq

Member
what?s the best float switch for the shower sump. Need to replace the Attwood which lasted 2 seasons.
 
I upgraded to an electronic and it's been far more reliable for me. Sometimes they have trouble getting going in the beginning of the season, it's a little strange but if you clean them and give them a week or two they start up again. I was only getting a year out of the manual switches, the one I have now is probably 5 years old.

https://www.hodgesmarine.com/whabe9003-whale-electric-field-bilge-switch.html

I have a lot of time on that shower box, probably more time than anywhere else on the boat.

I did two things to make life easier. When I installed the electronic float switch I put a male and female connector in line so if I need to manually operate or test it I just put them together, no cutting or splicing.

I also mounted the electronic switch on the side of the box on some threaded screws so I don't have to dry and seal the bottom of the box if it needs to be changed.
 
Replaced the float switch however the sump is not emptying out. The gulper pump was running but nothing coming out. The pump continued to run so I disconnected it until I can figure out what the issue is.
 
Hello, I recently purchased a 2007 400SS. The Whale Gulper 220 shower sump recently began running constantly. The shower has not been used under my ownership. I am assuming the shower sump float switch has a problem? Where is this located? Thank you.
 
Hawkmeister38 said:
Hello, I recently purchased a 2007 400SS. The Whale Gulper 220 shower sump recently began running constantly. The shower has not been used under my ownership. I am assuming the shower sump float switch has a problem? Where is this located? Thank you.
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The float switch would be located in the box itself. Remove the cover, clean out the strainer and all components and re-try. It may just be all gunked up. Other things drain into this box besides the shower.
 
Put screens in your sink/shower drains, and run water down the drain and through the sump box for a couple of flush/pump cycles after putting shampoo, soap suds, toothpaste, dishwashing liquid ect..., down the drain. It flushes out most of what sits in, and fouls the system out, rather than having the sudsy mix just sit in the box. This practice yields a much more reliable system with longer-lasting components.
 
You didn't state what type switch you have. My 34 PC uses the capacitance type switch, and my experience has been that it fails in the on position. (happened twice) Just a thought. Also, this type switch must be kept clean, as stated above. Any conductivity between contact points, and the pump will run.
 
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