why no more topics??


F

Formula Tenn

New member
wonder why there are very few posts in this v-drive section ??? i've got v-drives. i like v-drives. doesn't anybody else have/like v-drives ??? ???

i'll try ta get sumthin going for all the v-drivers out there. how bout this: i got some of those dripless shaft seal thingies (pronounced thing-ez) and one of them seems ta leak a bit. i've heard they are adjustable. anybody know how to do that??

also, mine are Hurth drives. do they have some kinda filter or something that needs to be serviced? my surveyor told me these drives were really tough. i ain't had no problems but does anybody have an opinion?
 
I WOULD GUESS THAT POSTS ARE FEW, BECAUSE MOST OF US HAVE OUTDRIVES. VERY FEW VEE DRIVE GUYS HERE. I KNOW PT G, GEORGE HAS A 41 PC WITH EITHER VEE'S OR STRAITS.
 
I am running ZF Vdrives. I think ZF and Hurth are one now.There is a transmission filter on mine that has to be serviced every 250 hours. I do have Yanmar diesels on my boat.
 
yeah, i knew that most of them had outdrives. that's sorta how we came up with the name for ours. v-drives in that year and size seem to be hard to find. i guess any help might be limited here for me on this subject.
 
Hey Tenn...i noticed nobody ever answered your original question about the dripless packing seals. on my 40 they were anything but dripless for the longest time. essentially it's an accordion like piece of rubber sleeve that's compressed by a stainless steel ring. the more you compress it, the tighter the seal. it also forces water in from the engine to force a suction while running. so, a few things can happen.

first, you could just start becoming a bit loose, and all you need to do i recompress the sleeve. it has 3 retaining screws that sit on top of 3 contact screws. you have to remove the 3 outer screws, then loosen the 3 inner screws so that you can move the ring. note that at this time, if you're in the water, you have water shooting in at all directions from around the sleeve. ;) much more calming to do this while on the hard.

once the ring is loosened, you can compress down on the sleeve, tighten the screws, and you should be all good. PSS actually recommends that you only ever tighten the set screws once, and then discard them. you could however rotate the set screws with the retaining screws once, and not have to order all new screws. i will also say that the rubber sleeve is quite hard, so it's a bit of a beast to compress. my mechanic had some sort of tool that he slipped on to the shaft to give him some leverage for compressing the sleeve.

the other thing that can happen is that a piece of debris can get caught between the sleeve, and the metal ring. PSS says that you can take a clean rag, slip it between the two, run it around the shaft, and it should come out clean, which should fix your drip.

finally, if something did get stuck in between the sleeve, and the ring for too long...it could wear a groove in the stainless steel ring, which will lead to a permanent drip, and you'll have to replace both the sleeve, and the ring. if you end up this far, let me know...i ended up with a spare set during a maintenance, and can part with them if you want.

they're made by PSS....check this link, and you'll get lots more info. hope this helps...

http://www.shaftseal.com/en/categories

todd
 
thanks Todd thats some good info. i don't know of any leaks i have at this time but i guess i need to take a peak the next time i go out. i've done a little reading on these seals but it is nice to know someone has been there/done that in case i have any questions. i don't know if you read my post about having to replace the flywheel starter ring or not but i did the repair with the boat in the water. in the process of removing the coupler i pulled the shaft into the boat a little too far and broke the seal. it got my attention to say the least! i think the adjustment could be done in the water as long as you knew the procedure and were very careful.
 
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