Okay, more details of this and what we've done to date. The clutches did not work!
Apologize for the long note but could use some help. And yes a VP service technician is on the case with no luck.
Okay, I have a 2007 Formula 400 SS with Volvo Penta D6-350s and DPH-A drives. Engines have 420 hours on them. About a month ago, my family and I were out with some friends for a cruise in the boat. With the exception of some shifter cable issues, the boat has run flawlessly all summer which account for 65 hours of use.
While we were leaving the beach, I idled through the slow no wake for 10 minutes and went on plane for a mile or two. Brought the boat back to idle and then up to 2,000 RPMs or so to create a bit of a wake for some jet skis. Continued to do this for about 2 miles and maybe 10 minutes. Brought the boat back to idle for a slow no wake. About 2-3 minutes into that slow no wake I got a high temperature warning. Never had one before.
Not sure at what point the EVC alarms you for hot temperature, but if I recall it read about 203 degrees on the port engine. I immediately shut it off. A couple of minutes later, I turned the ignition key back on (not starting it) to see what the temp of the engine was. It was back to 185 degrees. Weird?! I instantly thought an impeller.
So, I started the port engine and everything seems fine. Continued to idle for another 5 minutes with no issue. Then I began to bring the boat on plane when I noticed a loss of RPMs on the port engine versus the starboard. It was rather difficult to get the boat on plane as a result. So, I turned the boat around and idled back to our slip.
I should note that I lost about 1/2 to 3/4 gallons of coolant from that heat spike. It must have burped out during the heat spike. The service tech thinks I may have sucked in something temporarily or even a plastic bag that covered the water intake.
Since that temporary heat spike, I've not had another issue with temperature on the port engine -- it stays right at 185 degrees. The loss of RPMs to the port engine has been very frustrating and one that we cannot seem to figure out. I believe the loss of RPMs and that temp spike are related somehow, of course there is always a chance they are not, but it seems like cause and effect.
Exact symptoms are that the port and starboard engines stay right together up to about 1,650-1,750 RPMs. As I give it more throttle to get the boat back on plane, the port engines stays a good 300-500 RPMs under the starboard engine. No matter what I do the port engine just cannot match the starboard. Feels like a loss of power with having less RPMs.
On a couple of occasions (after doing some testing), the port engine has stayed almost 800 RPMs under the starboard while coming on plane before catching up to starboard withing 400-500 RPMs at WOT. Again, it stays consistent with the starboard engine up to about 1,650-1,800 RPMs.
At WOT the starboard hits 3,650 RPMs and the port is lucky if it can get to 3,200. WOT speed is down about 8-10 knots. Also, sitting in the slip and revving in neutral, it feels like the throttle response of the port engine versus starboard is just not as crisp.
So, below is what we've done to diagnose the problem with no luck. I would appreciate any and all help with this.
1. Checked impeller - GOOD
2. Checked sea strainer - GOOD
3. Felt out-drive and propellers under water -- GOOD
4. Swapped intake manifold temperature sensors from starboard to port - NO DIFFERENCE
5. Installed new belts and torqued to spec -- NO DIFFERENCE
5. Volvo Penta service tech performed a Vodia compression test -- GOOD
6. Volvo Penta service tech measured boost pressure for turbo -- GOOD
7. Volvo Penta service tech measured injector pressure -- GOOD
8. Volvo Penta service tech changed clutches in superchargers -- NO DIFFERENCE
9. Volvo Penta service tech said there were no codes stored
Unfortunately, the boat is being pulled out of the water on Monday for the winter. I will have to wait until spring to do more diagnostics. The VP service tech said we should do a more elaborate compression test and a fuel pressure test in the spring. What do you guys think this could be?
Service tech thinks it's a mechanical issue at this point versus electrical but who the heck knows at this point.
Apologize for the long note but could use some help. And yes a VP service technician is on the case with no luck.
Okay, I have a 2007 Formula 400 SS with Volvo Penta D6-350s and DPH-A drives. Engines have 420 hours on them. About a month ago, my family and I were out with some friends for a cruise in the boat. With the exception of some shifter cable issues, the boat has run flawlessly all summer which account for 65 hours of use.
While we were leaving the beach, I idled through the slow no wake for 10 minutes and went on plane for a mile or two. Brought the boat back to idle and then up to 2,000 RPMs or so to create a bit of a wake for some jet skis. Continued to do this for about 2 miles and maybe 10 minutes. Brought the boat back to idle for a slow no wake. About 2-3 minutes into that slow no wake I got a high temperature warning. Never had one before.
Not sure at what point the EVC alarms you for hot temperature, but if I recall it read about 203 degrees on the port engine. I immediately shut it off. A couple of minutes later, I turned the ignition key back on (not starting it) to see what the temp of the engine was. It was back to 185 degrees. Weird?! I instantly thought an impeller.
So, I started the port engine and everything seems fine. Continued to idle for another 5 minutes with no issue. Then I began to bring the boat on plane when I noticed a loss of RPMs on the port engine versus the starboard. It was rather difficult to get the boat on plane as a result. So, I turned the boat around and idled back to our slip.
I should note that I lost about 1/2 to 3/4 gallons of coolant from that heat spike. It must have burped out during the heat spike. The service tech thinks I may have sucked in something temporarily or even a plastic bag that covered the water intake.
Since that temporary heat spike, I've not had another issue with temperature on the port engine -- it stays right at 185 degrees. The loss of RPMs to the port engine has been very frustrating and one that we cannot seem to figure out. I believe the loss of RPMs and that temp spike are related somehow, of course there is always a chance they are not, but it seems like cause and effect.
Exact symptoms are that the port and starboard engines stay right together up to about 1,650-1,750 RPMs. As I give it more throttle to get the boat back on plane, the port engines stays a good 300-500 RPMs under the starboard engine. No matter what I do the port engine just cannot match the starboard. Feels like a loss of power with having less RPMs.
On a couple of occasions (after doing some testing), the port engine has stayed almost 800 RPMs under the starboard while coming on plane before catching up to starboard withing 400-500 RPMs at WOT. Again, it stays consistent with the starboard engine up to about 1,650-1,800 RPMs.
At WOT the starboard hits 3,650 RPMs and the port is lucky if it can get to 3,200. WOT speed is down about 8-10 knots. Also, sitting in the slip and revving in neutral, it feels like the throttle response of the port engine versus starboard is just not as crisp.
So, below is what we've done to diagnose the problem with no luck. I would appreciate any and all help with this.
1. Checked impeller - GOOD
2. Checked sea strainer - GOOD
3. Felt out-drive and propellers under water -- GOOD
4. Swapped intake manifold temperature sensors from starboard to port - NO DIFFERENCE
5. Installed new belts and torqued to spec -- NO DIFFERENCE
5. Volvo Penta service tech performed a Vodia compression test -- GOOD
6. Volvo Penta service tech measured boost pressure for turbo -- GOOD
7. Volvo Penta service tech measured injector pressure -- GOOD
8. Volvo Penta service tech changed clutches in superchargers -- NO DIFFERENCE
9. Volvo Penta service tech said there were no codes stored
Unfortunately, the boat is being pulled out of the water on Monday for the winter. I will have to wait until spring to do more diagnostics. The VP service tech said we should do a more elaborate compression test and a fuel pressure test in the spring. What do you guys think this could be?
Service tech thinks it's a mechanical issue at this point versus electrical but who the heck knows at this point.
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