Alternative to "old style" float switch - field sensing


I have not, yet. Changed plenty of the old float switches. Next time one fails I will consider one. Curious what the failure mode is, on or off?
 
Great question, don't know the failure state...I have replaced so many of the old style over the years....they always fail "off", i.e. so water overflows the sump box. Guess if it failed on, the Gulper COULD burn out.....not sure what is preferred.
 
Well so much for that idea... thanks for finding it though

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I'm using the Whale version, I installed it in 2014 and I just replaced one for the first time, I felt like the manual float switches were only lasting a year or two in the shower box. The manual switches in my bilges have been going strong with no issues.

I need to post a pic but one of the reasons I like it is that it can mount to the side of the shower box so if it needs to be changed you don't have to dry the box and reseal it. I put some machine screws though the side of the box like studs and I can unscrew the nuts and replace it in about 10 minutes.
 
Is there any reason not to run the electronic switch in parallel with the mechanical float switch? Should 1 fail, the other (hopefully) should still work. Dual failures are far less likely.
 
Mmmmm, so electronic would need water to stay powered....so you would need to mount it lower....then the old school float would cycle once it floated.

If the old style fails, it fails off....circuit to the new would never be completed. (i think)

is there a way or am i just not that good in electronical....could be
 
I didn't add a second switch but I did install a male and female plug so I can bypass the float switch if needed without taking anything apart.
 
Nate said:
I didn't add a second switch but I did install a male and female plug so I can bypass the float switch if needed without taking anything apart.
Click to expand...
Is it a waterproof plug or just outside the box so it generally stays pretty dry

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Think parallel not series. The one set to the lowest level always starts the pump. Should it fail the other switch set a little higher takes over. Not really any way to detect the lower sensors failure I think? Yet
 
ScottyO said:
Think parallel not series. The one set to the lowest level always starts the pump. Should it fail the other switch set a little higher takes over. Not really any way to detect the lower sensors failure I think? Yet
Click to expand...

A simple circuit, even 2 relays and a diode, would give you an alarm indicating that the higher sensor activated without activation of the lower sensor. Or even just an alarm hooked to the higher sensor that would indicate a condition that needs investigation.
 
My boat came with this type switch on all 3 pumps. The one in the shower sump failed, after 5 years, it failed on. The one in the engine compartment didn't really fail, but the wire splice, from Formula, failed. The splice sat low in the bilge, where there is usually a little bit of water. I've since moved the splice above any standing water. Overall I like these switches.
 
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