AutoPilots
- Thread starter jetmart
- Start date
This is the only practical way to do it with our set up. It's a simple and clean install. Just make sure you install the Octopus drive unit in a locale perpendicular to the existing outdrive drive cylinder, so that the Octopus cable makes a 90 degree turn. This is very important. Custom Octopus drive cable lengths are available to account for mounting in various locations should anything be in the way.
axapowell
Member
I will keep you in the loop. A couple projects take a front seat, but I'll plug along with this. Won't really need it until July, we have a long trip planned. I would like to get it done and running well.
I won't be using the octopus set up. I have a manual helm for my V drives/ rudders, so the pump will control the steering. There needs to be a non-pressure (hard line) that goes from the helm to the pump. Formula installed one with the hydraulic lines to the aft of the boat. I need to figure out the fittings required to make that work. There is also a coupler fitting for the hydraulic lines right where that "hard line" ends, so that might make easy connections of the pump. From there, I'll need to run the appropriate sized power wire and the rudder indicator wires back to the control box near the helm. Fun fun.
Dave
I won't be using the octopus set up. I have a manual helm for my V drives/ rudders, so the pump will control the steering. There needs to be a non-pressure (hard line) that goes from the helm to the pump. Formula installed one with the hydraulic lines to the aft of the boat. I need to figure out the fittings required to make that work. There is also a coupler fitting for the hydraulic lines right where that "hard line" ends, so that might make easy connections of the pump. From there, I'll need to run the appropriate sized power wire and the rudder indicator wires back to the control box near the helm. Fun fun.
Dave
Whoops......my apologies. I didn't look far enough to realize you weren't one of the guys with Stern Drives.
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axapowell
Member
jetmart
Member
Do you have outdrives or inboards? What did you use to power the drives or rudders?
axapowell
Member
So, I started my RayMarine Evolution Auto pilot install today. So far it's been a lot of research prior to turning a wrench.
Here's what I have. EV-1 sensor core, ACU 200 control, Pump Type 1, and the P70R head. These are going to be integrated with my e127.
I have a SeaStar 2 line helm, rudder and non power hydraulic steering system. This is a 2.4 Sport tilt helm with a HC5319 Ram BA175.7 TM.
Good news first, there needs to be a compensation line run from the helm to the pump. Thanks Formula for doing this when you built her, that is going to be a big time saver. I was able to mount the sensor core and the ACU under the dash just to the left and above (behind) the lower storage or glove compartment as some call it. Easy run with the 3' spurs up to the sea talk network splitter.
Plan to mount the pump and see if the hoses and fittings I bought work tomorrow along with running the 12 gauge wire and rudder sensor cable forward to the ACU. I'll post a couple shots so far and continue with the the description.
Dave
Here's what I have. EV-1 sensor core, ACU 200 control, Pump Type 1, and the P70R head. These are going to be integrated with my e127.
I have a SeaStar 2 line helm, rudder and non power hydraulic steering system. This is a 2.4 Sport tilt helm with a HC5319 Ram BA175.7 TM.
Good news first, there needs to be a compensation line run from the helm to the pump. Thanks Formula for doing this when you built her, that is going to be a big time saver. I was able to mount the sensor core and the ACU under the dash just to the left and above (behind) the lower storage or glove compartment as some call it. Easy run with the 3' spurs up to the sea talk network splitter.
Plan to mount the pump and see if the hoses and fittings I bought work tomorrow along with running the 12 gauge wire and rudder sensor cable forward to the ACU. I'll post a couple shots so far and continue with the the description.
Dave
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axapowell
Member
It did say 36" from electrical devices, heavy wiring and the compass. I mounted it and when I fired it up it did not change the compass heading and is in within 3* of the magnetic heading. It looks as it is fine there. I haven't driven the boat yet due to the weather, but it appears to be okay. I'll report back next week when I get the chance to drive it.
Dave
Dave
axapowell
Member
As for the install, plan on start to finish, 15 to 20 hours. I had to remove a section or two of exhaust to gain access to the rudder ram and have the ability to work in their. Real tight, I won't be doing this again anytime soon.
I spent the better part of an hour today, bleeding the hydraulic system and getting the pump to run smooth. Lots of air in the compensation line. Just keep working it out and finally got a firm wheel and better sounding pump. I think I'm ready to test drive it, but have to fly home tomorrow, so later this week.
Overall, very happy with things thus far, it seems to react to the controller and moves the rudder in the correct direction. Once I test drive, I'll be able to calibrate the rudder and see how it tracks. Stand by!
I spent the better part of an hour today, bleeding the hydraulic system and getting the pump to run smooth. Lots of air in the compensation line. Just keep working it out and finally got a firm wheel and better sounding pump. I think I'm ready to test drive it, but have to fly home tomorrow, so later this week.
Overall, very happy with things thus far, it seems to react to the controller and moves the rudder in the correct direction. Once I test drive, I'll be able to calibrate the rudder and see how it tracks. Stand by!
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axapowell
Member
So, I decided to go ahead and give it a test run. Wow, how cool is this thing!!!
After the dockside set up and getting familiar with where things are, I was able to complete the dockside wizard set up. Heading out of the marina, it appeared that the heading (I am using magnetic for both the plotter and AP) were close but off by a couple of degrees. Per the manual, I did a slow 360 actually using the circle pattern on the auto pilot to set the compass. The rudder was off by 4* so a simple offset took care of that, for now I'll explain in a minute. After completing the 360, my heading is dead on. My plotter is still off by 1-2 degrees, but I'll have to see how to adjust that so all 3 match.
The rudder reference transducer seems difficult to align. There are marks on the back side to line up for straight. So you have to center the rudder the best you can then align the 2 marks. They are on the back of the transducer and impossible to see. I centered the rudder best I could during the install and aligned the marks, apparently off by 4*. Not really a big deal, but now lock to lock, my rudder angle is off by 6* side to side. So back at the dock, I know where actual center is now, I adjusted the transducer to 0. I'll play with this more and report back.
Holding a heading is really cool. Tracks straight as an arrow, mind you it was pretty calm yesterday, but cool none the less. Power steer mode is crazy, turn the knob and 1/2 a turn and it turns the boat to full lock! Hang on! Heading adjustments are easy with the P70R. Turn the knob, there is no +- 1 or +- 10, this is in heading mode, so the turns are much less aggressive than power steer.
The new software update just came in May for Lighthouse, which is the operating system for RayMarine. Dock to dock auto routing is now available on the e127. Pick two points, and the plotter will draw an appropriate route with safe depths and the auto pilot will follow it. Tried it 15 miles from my dock and never touch the wheel the whole way back. Straight down the channel right between the markers. As a safety measure, everywhere the auto route put a waypoint, the plotter or auto pilot require a response from you to confirm the heading change with a push of a button.
As a mentioned before, this was a lot of work starting with nothing, but the convience and fuel savings on a long trip will be well worth it in the long run. I'll continue to make small tweaks to the system and get those couple little issues straightened out as time allows. The position of the Core sensor seems fine with no interference from any other electronics, although, I did not turn on the marine radio yet, we'll see what happens there. (I forgot).
That's it for now!
Dave
After the dockside set up and getting familiar with where things are, I was able to complete the dockside wizard set up. Heading out of the marina, it appeared that the heading (I am using magnetic for both the plotter and AP) were close but off by a couple of degrees. Per the manual, I did a slow 360 actually using the circle pattern on the auto pilot to set the compass. The rudder was off by 4* so a simple offset took care of that, for now I'll explain in a minute. After completing the 360, my heading is dead on. My plotter is still off by 1-2 degrees, but I'll have to see how to adjust that so all 3 match.
The rudder reference transducer seems difficult to align. There are marks on the back side to line up for straight. So you have to center the rudder the best you can then align the 2 marks. They are on the back of the transducer and impossible to see. I centered the rudder best I could during the install and aligned the marks, apparently off by 4*. Not really a big deal, but now lock to lock, my rudder angle is off by 6* side to side. So back at the dock, I know where actual center is now, I adjusted the transducer to 0. I'll play with this more and report back.
Holding a heading is really cool. Tracks straight as an arrow, mind you it was pretty calm yesterday, but cool none the less. Power steer mode is crazy, turn the knob and 1/2 a turn and it turns the boat to full lock! Hang on! Heading adjustments are easy with the P70R. Turn the knob, there is no +- 1 or +- 10, this is in heading mode, so the turns are much less aggressive than power steer.
The new software update just came in May for Lighthouse, which is the operating system for RayMarine. Dock to dock auto routing is now available on the e127. Pick two points, and the plotter will draw an appropriate route with safe depths and the auto pilot will follow it. Tried it 15 miles from my dock and never touch the wheel the whole way back. Straight down the channel right between the markers. As a safety measure, everywhere the auto route put a waypoint, the plotter or auto pilot require a response from you to confirm the heading change with a push of a button.
As a mentioned before, this was a lot of work starting with nothing, but the convience and fuel savings on a long trip will be well worth it in the long run. I'll continue to make small tweaks to the system and get those couple little issues straightened out as time allows. The position of the Core sensor seems fine with no interference from any other electronics, although, I did not turn on the marine radio yet, we'll see what happens there. (I forgot).
That's it for now!
Dave
axapowell
Member
jetmart
Member
axapowell
Member
Only thing that's not real good is the auto-routing dock to dock on the RayMarine screen. I works real good on the Navionics app, but a little confused on the e127. The auto pilot is driven from the screen to follow routes, so a little pain there. as far as the auto-pilot stand alone, awesome. tracks true and straight!
The work around for the auto-routing is to do it on the ipad and then send it to the plotter. Seems to work okay that way.
Dave
The work around for the auto-routing is to do it on the ipad and then send it to the plotter. Seems to work okay that way.
Dave