B3X Drive Lube Reservoir Leaking


sbdennis

sbdennis

Member
2006 370SS 496 HO's B3X
While changing my drive lube I noticed the reservoir is leaking from the bottom. Can't tell if it's from the connection at the tube or where it screws into the plastic reservoir. Anyone else had this problem? What was the fix?
 
Just to be sure, are you SURE it did not overflow, meaning when backing filling it is SUPER EASY to do that.
Assuming it did not....then I have never seen this....but if the tube into the plastic, just compare to the other side and if it appears the same it MOST LIKELY could be the screw.

But I am sure other more technical folks will jump in shortly....
 
Didn't overflow, after oil drained I noticed some sludge in the bottom of the reservoir, removed it to clean and found oil puddle directly underneath it. Both engines.
 
sbdennis said:
Didn't overflow, after oil drained I noticed some sludge in the bottom of the reservoir, removed it to clean and found oil puddle directly underneath it. Both engines.
Click to expand...

Mmmm, both engines...I wonder if when you cleaned the sludge you MIGHT HAVE bunged up the fitting...might be a temp thing, meaning since rubber it squeezed out and it won't happen again. Sorry I don't have anything more to add other than when you refill does it keep leaking ? but you might not have refilled yet....so......

We will need others to chime in...
 
I second the Hummm with both motors. The lube bottles have a one way valve in the top cap. The valve allows air to come in but not out. If the cap is left off, when the drive heats up the lube will over flow. The valve keeps pressure in the drive and therefore the lube does not expand much if any. So if both valves have gone bad, they will both leak.

The test of this is go for a good run, then stop and have a look. If the lube bottle raises, the cap needs replaced. Otherwise, my next thought is the base of the bottle is leaking under pressure
 
AllDodge said:
I second the Hummm with both motors. The lube bottles have a one way valve in the top cap. The valve allows air to come in but not out. If the cap is left off, when the drive heats up the lube will over flow. The valve keeps pressure in the drive and therefore the lube does not expand much if any. So if both valves have gone bad, they will both leak.

The test of this is go for a good run, then stop and have a look. If the lube bottle raises, the cap needs replaced. Otherwise, my next thought is the base of the bottle is leaking under pressure
Click to expand...
Sounds like the boat might be out of the water for the winter though so I guess the original poster will fill us in shortly....

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
Correct, the boat is out for the season and I have not refilled the bottles yet. This weekend I will clean the bottles, make sure all connections are good and refill. So in the spring when I can test drive it, if the lube raises in the bottle I need to replace the caps? Also, I rarely run the boat over 4K rpm's but was still thinking about putting drive showers on, would lowering the temperature also help with any pressure issues? Thanks for your help.
 
The cooler the drives are kept the better. The B3 drives on your size boat produce more heat then the B1. They IMO really need a shower even just cruising around. The easiest shower to install is the Semrik because of no drilling. Only bad is $200 for a piece on stainless steel tubing, that is a mark up.

If the bottle increases in volume and there are no leaks then you need new caps

Have found the best way to refill the drive is fill bottom up as normal. Once full to the upper vent, lay drive down on its side with up, then either pump some more in until full, or I even just pour it into the upper vent. If you don't do something similar the bottle volume will keep dropping until drive is full.
 
Resevoir bottles have plastic tab locking collars on them. Temp variances will change tubing pliability a bit. Carefully remove bottle and look for lock tabs on hoses to/from bottle(resevoir). Should be 2 thumb/finger lock rings (squeeze type). If you can move and/or rotate hoses somewhat, give ea ring a squeeze and listen for the "click". Verify no movement from hoses. I had the "drip here and there" over a season and a little lock ring tightening solved it.... BOL. I'll post pic next couple days
 
Mercruiser did have a small batch of reservoirs where the fitting on bottom was not sealed properly the tech rep had our shop remove it clean and pressure it up to 10 psi from bottom nipple with cap on if cap is bad it will leak if reservoir is not sealed it will leak check with soapy water do not exceed 10 psi
 
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