It may be some time before I am able to do this, but make no mistake that the Ultraleather vertical wall covering must be "damaged" to the extent that two or three large lag bolts are screwed through it to secure the TV mount into the plywood backing. This is a permanent installation and if you ever remove the TV the "damage" will be visible (I suppose you could hang a picture there or something to cover the holes in the Ultraleather).
Since the TV is mounted in front of the wall over the aft berth entrance, both the mount and the wall are hidden behind the TV after installation. Stated another way, mounting the TV on this Ultraleather fabric covered panel is no different than mounting it on the sheetrock and studs of your house (except that you need not find a stud because the whole wall is strong enough to support any TV and mount that you will likely fit there). If you pull the TV off your sheetrock wall, there will be holes. The Ultraleather wall covering is not removed and replaced - the mount is secured directly to and through it with appropriate sized screws/bolts to support the TV. Obviously, you need to measure twice and drill once after confirming TV positioning, mount swing, viewing angle, etc. or you will have even more "Damage" if you later opt to remove things.
If you mount the TV high enough, the unsightly cabling (power, antenna, etc.) will also be hidden by the TV itself and can run straight behind the TV to the starboard bulkhead (and then routed to your power panel for AC power). My TV was actually mounted lower, and the cabling ran DOWN and then over (as there is a natural horizontal "tuck" shelf on my PC). Since a few inches of cabling was showing UNDER the TV, I wrapped it with some extra Ultraleather I had from a separate project and you can hardly tell it's there. Cable hiding can be done either way, optimized to your own tucking/hiding options.
I also moved my antenna control box from under the original TV cavity (under the galley countertop) to directly behind the TV, but I did not reroute the entire original coax by pulling new cable from the radar arch mounted Gazelle antenna to the new TV position. I simply purchased a very thin and long (25'?) coax cable from amazon, connected it to the original termination point under the counter, and then "pulled" it under the fridge and the head door, behind the removable cabin steps, up the aft berth wall, and then over to the re-positioned antenna control box behind the TV. The thin cable made tucking it into seems alot easier.
Another thought: My TV mount is articulating, meaning it swings out and the TV can be adjusted for optimal angle. I never use it for this purpose so a flat mount would seem acceptable, EXCEPT that I often find it necessary/desirable to get behind the TV for cable insertion or adjustment (especially if you use an Apple Lightning to HDMI converter, or a Chrome dongle, etc.), so being able to swing it out is a real benefit. That said, the articulating arm definitely needs a STURDY locking mechanism so it doesn't swing out underway. Mine did not, and it sometimes swung out on its own with spirited cruising, so I had to rig a system to fix it in place unless I WANTED it to articulate.
Hope this helps.