well, splashed the 41pc last week.Took her for a ride and had a pretty bad vibration, which surprised me since i had the 5 blade props done at atlantis over the winter. Had her pulled out for a look. Found the starboard cutlas bearing had some play in it. Port side was solid no play at all. I decided to have the service dept change both, since theyre both probably the same age. The service manager called me today and said he couldnt get the old bearings out. He called formula and the manufacturer of the strut and basically a special tool is needed that my marina doesnt have . another marina close by has the seven thousand dollar tool needed, so theyre going to do the job. Now im on blocks waiting. Im new to inboards , but i was under the impression that cutlas bearing replacement was a relatively simple job. also what kind of life can i expect from cutlas bearings? I am new to inboards any insight would be greatly appreciated. ????
cutlas bearing
- Thread starter Edice
- Start date
My 2002 41 pc had a severe prop vibration when I bought it in November 09 because of air being pulled passed the pss dripless seals and causing the props to ventilate. Most noticable when coming up onto plane and then on plane as well. The theory is that the 5 blade props create enough vacuum to collapse the seal bellows.
Edice,
I can not comment on the prop vacuum issue but removing the bearings is something I have done before.
Is your marina removing the bearings with the prop shafts in or out? If the are removing the shafts then all you need is a piece of round stock aluminum or brass that has the exact outer diameter of the cutlass bearings and also a large c-clamp. This will just push the bearing straight through the mount and out she goes. If they are trying to leave the shafts in then this is where it gets difficult. Let me find my cutlass bearing tools & I will let you know exactly what I use for shaft in bearing problems.
First make sure your PSS shaft seals have a water feed to them and they are not blocked or constricted. Any boat that goes over a certain speed will create vacuum in that area and needs a water feed to the seal to make up for the vacuum.
As far as to much vacuum from the 5 blade props, it would make sense that if you added a second water feed to the PSS that may compensate for the excessive amount of vacuum. At least the second water fed would be a cheap fix before you get into deeper pocket expenses.
I can not comment on the prop vacuum issue but removing the bearings is something I have done before.
Is your marina removing the bearings with the prop shafts in or out? If the are removing the shafts then all you need is a piece of round stock aluminum or brass that has the exact outer diameter of the cutlass bearings and also a large c-clamp. This will just push the bearing straight through the mount and out she goes. If they are trying to leave the shafts in then this is where it gets difficult. Let me find my cutlass bearing tools & I will let you know exactly what I use for shaft in bearing problems.
First make sure your PSS shaft seals have a water feed to them and they are not blocked or constricted. Any boat that goes over a certain speed will create vacuum in that area and needs a water feed to the seal to make up for the vacuum.
As far as to much vacuum from the 5 blade props, it would make sense that if you added a second water feed to the PSS that may compensate for the excessive amount of vacuum. At least the second water fed would be a cheap fix before you get into deeper pocket expenses.
I didn't replace the bearings but I did replace the seals with Norscott oil filled seals. There was good water feed to the PSS bearings. PSS recomends changing the seal bellows periodically, every 5 years I think, because the spring can go slack. You can also try pushing the stainless collar against the carbon seal a little harder by loosening the set screws and sliding it down the shaft and then locking it again...
Formula Tenn
New member
will one of you guys enlighten me? i'm confused about the correlation between the pss dripless shaft SEAL and the CUTLASS BEARING located in the strut. can a bad/worn/leaking shaft seal affect the cutlass bearing somehow? the cutlass bearing should not be a difficult replacement with the boat on the hard, even if the shafts have to be removed. there are 4 small bolts/nuts and one large nut holding the coupler and flange to the shaft. they are easily accessed at the rear (forward facing end) of the v-drives. once everything is taken loose i believe the shaft will slide out. unless the rudder is in the way. i'm not sure about the rudder issue but it would be worth a look anyway. if removal of the shafts is easily accomplished, why all the fuss? yank the shafts, remove the old bearings and install new ones. put it back together and you could be having a cocktail by evening time 
Formula TN,
There is no correlation between the PSS & the cutlass. I agree, if the boat is on the hard then the cutlass is a easy fix. Edice has the 41PC with straight drives which makes shaft removal like heaven compared to yours & my PCs with vdrives. The rudder will not be in the way. The only problem that can happen is the shaft can sometimes be a bear to get out of the coupler.
There is no correlation between the PSS & the cutlass. I agree, if the boat is on the hard then the cutlass is a easy fix. Edice has the 41PC with straight drives which makes shaft removal like heaven compared to yours & my PCs with vdrives. The rudder will not be in the way. The only problem that can happen is the shaft can sometimes be a bear to get out of the coupler.
thanks guys, Boathound is correct, my 41pc has straight drives, electric shift. the starboard side shaft had a little play in the bearing, the port was solid, no play at all. so the conclusion that the service tech came up with,'' cutlas bearing '', made sense. but i'm totally green when it comes to inboards. unfortunately, i'm 2 hours away from my boat, so i can't keep going down and looking and figuring ect. I'm wondering now, if i should be looking at the seals as well. i'd hate to get her back in the water and have to pull her again. if its recomended to change the seals every so many years. . . . I just purchased the boat in september, she only has 250 hours on her and was on the hard for three years before i bought her. But years may be more relevant than hours when it comes to seals. I'll call the marina tomorrow and have them eyeball the seals,see what they say.
Formula Tenn
New member
let me put this on here first of all so if anyone wants to check it out they can: http://www.strutpro.com/
Jschulte, i don't know that the straight drive shafts would be any easier to get to than my v-drives. the shafts on mine go through the transmission so the coupler flange and shaft nut are super easy to get to at the rear (forward facing) end of the drives. i have the Hurth's though so i guess it could be different on other makes. i guess removing the dripless seal would be easier on the straight drives though.
Edice i didn't notice what year your ride was but i see that the dripless seals are mentioned so i assume you have them. this would be a great opportunity in my opinion to have the boots replaced if they look at all questionable and if you don't in fact have dripless seals you really should look into them.
we purchased our new to us 95 34pc last year and at the time the surveyor said the cutlass bearings looked to be in very good condition. i haven't a clue when they may have been last serviced so i'd like to hear what the recommendations are for that if anyone is familiar. Dripless seals were on the boat but i'm not sure if that was from the factory or if Seadoc had them installed. doesn't really matter as they work really well.
Boathound i was under the impression that the dripless seal tension adjustment was pretty critical (too tight not good too loose it will leak). is that an adjustment that i could make myself? just loosen the set screws and add a slight amount of tension? or does the tension have to be "set" at a certain amount?
Jschulte, i don't know that the straight drive shafts would be any easier to get to than my v-drives. the shafts on mine go through the transmission so the coupler flange and shaft nut are super easy to get to at the rear (forward facing) end of the drives. i have the Hurth's though so i guess it could be different on other makes. i guess removing the dripless seal would be easier on the straight drives though.
Edice i didn't notice what year your ride was but i see that the dripless seals are mentioned so i assume you have them. this would be a great opportunity in my opinion to have the boots replaced if they look at all questionable and if you don't in fact have dripless seals you really should look into them.
we purchased our new to us 95 34pc last year and at the time the surveyor said the cutlass bearings looked to be in very good condition. i haven't a clue when they may have been last serviced so i'd like to hear what the recommendations are for that if anyone is familiar. Dripless seals were on the boat but i'm not sure if that was from the factory or if Seadoc had them installed. doesn't really matter as they work really well.
Boathound i was under the impression that the dripless seal tension adjustment was pretty critical (too tight not good too loose it will leak). is that an adjustment that i could make myself? just loosen the set screws and add a slight amount of tension? or does the tension have to be "set" at a certain amount?
Edice,
Without the strutpro tool which is a hydraulic sleeve, which fits bettwen the shaft and the id of the strut, the shafts have to come out of the boat as well as removing the props. Sure its not too hard if you have the right thin wall socket to get the monster shaft nut off the coupling at the transmision end. Speaking from experience I think 8 hours would be a good time for each shaft removal and throw in another 2 for each cutless bearing.
Tenn, PSS has a pretty good website from memory and they are specific about tension on the stainless collar Thing is, with age the bellows goes slack and the tension on the sealing surface goes to s@&$$. That is not so much of a concern if your props are pulling hard enough to reduce the sealing tension to less than zero and pull air. Before I changed the seals mine were pulled 1/4"apart at cruise so the sealing surfaces were not even touching!!! Can't leak water when the air is flowing out!
Without the strutpro tool which is a hydraulic sleeve, which fits bettwen the shaft and the id of the strut, the shafts have to come out of the boat as well as removing the props. Sure its not too hard if you have the right thin wall socket to get the monster shaft nut off the coupling at the transmision end. Speaking from experience I think 8 hours would be a good time for each shaft removal and throw in another 2 for each cutless bearing.
Tenn, PSS has a pretty good website from memory and they are specific about tension on the stainless collar Thing is, with age the bellows goes slack and the tension on the sealing surface goes to s@&$$. That is not so much of a concern if your props are pulling hard enough to reduce the sealing tension to less than zero and pull air. Before I changed the seals mine were pulled 1/4"apart at cruise so the sealing surfaces were not even touching!!! Can't leak water when the air is flowing out!
Formula Tenn
New member
looks like the strutpro tool can be purchased for around 400 bucks. i wonder how this compares to paying a yard to do it for you??
i guess i need to read up on the pss seals. i'm not familiar with the bellows going slack and not sure i understand what you mean about sucking air?? i do know that when i had to partially remove my v-drive to replace a starter ring i accidently pulled the shaft into the boat too far and water started pouring in. scared the ______(fill in the blank) outta me!! then i realized all i had to do was push the shaft back out and it would stop leaking. pretty cool but very nerve wracking when yer doin it in your slip on top of 15 feet of water!
i guess i need to read up on the pss seals. i'm not familiar with the bellows going slack and not sure i understand what you mean about sucking air?? i do know that when i had to partially remove my v-drive to replace a starter ring i accidently pulled the shaft into the boat too far and water started pouring in. scared the ______(fill in the blank) outta me!! then i realized all i had to do was push the shaft back out and it would stop leaking. pretty cool but very nerve wracking when yer doin it in your slip on top of 15 feet of water!
When I bring the power on to bring her up on plane the vibration is pretty bad. Once on plane it seems to settle down a bit. But when I increase the rpms for speed it gets very bad,at 2100 or 2200 rpms it gets violent, rattling the dash. Down right scary. I was afraid of doing serious damage. How involved is swapping the seals? Do the shafts have to come out to do them?
Formula Tenn
New member
the seal causing this vibration?? i would personally be surprised if this were the case. i would look at engine alignment, coupler, prop shaft (bent??), cutlass bearing, and prop. doesn't have to be in that order but i just can't see a shaft seal causing this. hopefully boathound will get you headed in the right direction. i once read a really good article on diagnosing inboard driveline vibrations but i can't for the life of me remember where i saw it . if i get a chance i'll poke around a bit and see if i can locate it for ya. i'd appreciate it if you'd keep us posted on this. us guys with inboards are in the minority here so i'm always interested in the problems and solutions related to these drive trains.
i don't think the shafts have to come out but they do have to be disconnected for the seal/boot replacement. ya might wanna read here: http://www.shaftseal.com/en/about/installation_instructions seems like i saw somewhere that the coupler needs to be inspected really closely too as corrosion will sometimes affect tolerances once it is removed.
. if i get a chance i'll poke around a bit and see if i can locate it for ya. i'd appreciate it if you'd keep us posted on this. us guys with inboards are in the minority here so i'm always interested in the problems and solutions related to these drive trains.i don't think the shafts have to come out but they do have to be disconnected for the seal/boot replacement. ya might wanna read here: http://www.shaftseal.com/en/about/installation_instructions seems like i saw somewhere that the coupler needs to be inspected really closely too as corrosion will sometimes affect tolerances once it is removed.
Sounds exactly like what I had. According to the Volvo tech. that did the sea trial with me it was a known issue on our boat. If you have someone drive the boat you can watch the bellows compress and the seal surface pull apart. You don't have to pull the shafts, you can take the flange off and sneak the seal assembly forward. I'm telling you I changed my seals and cured a vibration that felt like someone was beating on the bottom of the boat with a bucket of gravel. It was loud.