Engine Oil Cooler
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roberthoran
New member
Always bad news to have to spend $$$$$ on repairs, oil samples are so important and will save you BIG TIME on the other end. If left without a repair what would the final bill be, $2000 will be much better. Shop around over the winter, ya never know who may have a gently used one or an Ebay discount.
Good luck
Good luck
Update - Local Volvo guy was not sure on my diagnosis and wants me to resample using Volvo not Napa like the previous owner did for 13 years. But the PC is on the hard and he wants it done hot and from the dipstick tube not the oil change pump and use new plastic tube in the spring after 25 hours, of which I have 10 logged already. Wanting together some sleep until then I pulled a sample while on the hard and cold but used a clean tube and new pump, fingers crossed. Also with the copper at 87 Ppm he was not that concerned saying something about leaching of the copper or maybe he just wants the problem to get worse (HOPE NOT LOL), he has helped me out in the past and he will be doing the Transmission Recall after 17 years and also helping out with Installation of my new Raymarine i50 and Yacht Designs J1708 gateway and text display to monitor all the other engine functions i hope.
roberthoran
New member
Seems to be good news from a trusted source, if he advises and you trust his judgement maybe you can use that $2000 for fuel next season.
AllDodge
Well-known member
The high copper isn't good but the Potassium is which comes from coolant. How the sample is obtained has impact on results. It's best to find a place which can be drained out instead of sucked out. If pump is used multiple times, the sample is cumulative. Appears VP indicates to use a hand pump, while folks like CAT have designated drain points for samples
How would you recommend cleaning the pump?? How about denatured alcohol? I use that with woodwork after sanding then using tack cloth then denatured alcohol, it dries instantly and I think leaves no residue but don't know how it reacts to engine oil. Over the winter I will experiment with it by putting used oil on different products and used natured alcohol to see what happens.
AllDodge
Well-known member
Alcohol might work but then it also depends on what the pumps parts are made of. Alcohol can react for items and cause them to break down. Maybe the alcohol then flush with diesel or fresh oil. When taking the sample, pumps some out then take the sample.
You could install a Tee with the oil pressure switch or gauge sender, then add a small ball valve and removable rubber line. This way with the motor running, you can place the line in the container, crack the valve open a tad letting it fill the bottle. Just need a clean hose each time and not a pump
You could install a Tee with the oil pressure switch or gauge sender, then add a small ball valve and removable rubber line. This way with the motor running, you can place the line in the container, crack the valve open a tad letting it fill the bottle. Just need a clean hose each time and not a pump
Like the idea because there is a port on the manifold that has the two oil pressure switches (the gauge and the alarm). Radiator petcock that's 90 degrees therefore no tube needed and the pressure of the oil can be regulated so you don't have oil shooting out all over. Good IDEA ALLDODGE.
Fossil Fuel
Member
A sampling pump does not contaminate with past draws. Cat sells them, Napa sells them. They are simple hand vac pump. The bottle attaches and each sample uses a new piece of poly tube. Cheap and easy. A dipstick hot oil draw is by far the best. The critical line is a history of comparable past samples to really get a idea of whats going on. There are only a handful of labs across the country. Most all samples whether it be Volvo, Cat, GM, ect send their samples to the same labs.
Thank You.