First Season with my 1998 330 SS


J

Jackthebear

New member
This is my first season with my "new to me" 1998 330 SS with twin 7.4's and I have a few questions.

If you have a similar boat, at what RPM do you generally cruise?

I really don't like the stock Quicksilver shifters. Has anyone upgraded their shifters and if so, to what? What will fit?

Does anyone find it difficult to trim the boat starboard to port while on plane?

Is there a Vessel View type of electronics that I can install for engines this old. I seem to get the feeling that Vessel View will only work on newer engines.

Thanks in advance.
 
I had a 2000 with 7.4 MPI's, I believe 98 is the same engines?

When we cruised, at 3k rpm we were doing about 30-32 mph, at 3200rpm it seemed to pick up to 35-37mph and the engines felt like they were in their sweet spot.

Mine had the 4 levers, two for shifting, two for throttle. Livorsi style I suppose, I wouldn't go any other way with cable controls. It may be not hard to convert.

Are you talking about the tabs for trimming? It never felt wrong to me, double check your fluid levels and what the tabs are doing.


There is no vessel view, there are some products available to get the engine computer data into NMEA2000 messages, then you can go to a chart plotter. The commercial pre-programed stuff is expensive, the DIY stuff is time consuming/need to understand process and automation controls with computer communications to have success. In short, I just used the boat, and never messed with it. I also have a PLC/Automation background, and I still didn't bother attacking the digital data conversions. Then we bought our 34pc with modern stuff.

As a side note, if you need to re-engine, I would be hard pressed to put anything older than a 496 in, then you'd be in the modern world.
 
I have the same boat. I also have Livorsi style sifters and love them as it makes maneuvering easier because you separate control of power. Not sure how hard the conversion would be. We cruise 2950 to 3100 with 29-32 mph, I have never had issues trimming the boat. What I have learned for that boat was to trim out drives up and then if in a chop I will lower the nose with the tabs, makes the boat run a lot smoother.
 
I have the 1996 330 SS w/ Merc 7.4 MPI engines

I cruise around 2800 RPM maybe 3000 RPM if the water is calm.

I don't like the Quicksilver controls either. Most performance controls should fit, but the swap-over might be a bit challenging if you DIY.

I find that the boat likes to be trimmed 'in' or 'down', which puts the bow into the waves. Don't really have a problem trimming port/starboard. I use the outdrives to trim the boat side-to-side, don't really touch the trim tabs.

You may be right on the vessel view. I assume that your engines are the MPI version? If so, your engines probably have the MEFI-3 controllers and I'm not sure vessel view is supported by them.
 
Smart craft/vessel view simply will never work on the 7.4 MPI engines.

Here is an option though:

https://fox-marine.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=81&product_id=50

They make one for each Mefi version, just have to look up your serial number and see which version you have.

Then run an NMEA2000 backbone to a multi function display.

I wish that was available when I was looking for my 330. Of course you would need one for each engine, and an oil pressure module for each engine according to what I cursory read.
 
Has anyone installed a through bow anchoring system on their SS? Getting tired of pulling the anchor in by hand and the wife refuses to do it. Just curious as to which windless, roller, protective plating to get and what modifications are needed to the anchor locker.
 
'Through the bow' (like the newer Formula's) is probably not an option, given the amount of structural work that would be needed in and about the anchor locker.

I installed a windlass and bow roller on my 330SS, which is what most of the 330SS have as the windlass option. I used a Maxwell RC6-8 windlass, which is a little light duty for the boat, but it is OK. I would go with a bit beefier windlass. I think Formula used Lewmar windlasses in that era. A 'Vertical' windlass would be the way to go . . . Maybe consider the Maxwell RC-8 or the Lewmar V1.

IMG_5932.jpg IMG_7403.jpg IMG_7405.jpg IMG_7416.jpg image_242346.jpg

The anchor locker and the deck space ahead of it are a bit small. So there is not quite enough free-drop of the rode, but it is OK. Your only modification would be to mount the bow roller and drill the holes for the windlass.

Plan on spending a bunch of money . . .

Self-launching bow roller
Windlass
Wiring (Wicked heavy duty) 2 AWG or better
Helm switch

You will also need to disassemble the cabin ceiling to route the wiring. There will be a large circuit breaker to mount (probably near the battery switch would be best) and there is wiring and a solenoid to mount on the bulkhead that separates the anchor locker and cabin.
 
Thanks Ted. I have one bow naviation light in the center which I can easily split into two separate ones. According to the factory wiring diagram, there should be wire already ran but I doubt that it is as large as #2. thanks for the help.
 
My boat - (1996) did not have any wiring run for the windlass. You can check to see if there is wiring by pulling off the upper panel of the V-berth front wall. (it should be stuck on by velcro). I had to split out the navigation light as you could see in my pictures . . . no biggie.
 
I'm looking to add a bow roller and claw anchor to my 1998 330 SS as well. I'm not quite as ambitious as Ted - I just want the roller and anchor. I don't have the wiring for the windlass and it looks like a real commitment financially and time to put it in.

My question is what roller works best on the 330 SS? I'm thinking the Lewmar 66840017 looks like the best quality/value proposition. I'm adding a Lewmar 22# Bruce anchor. I thought the 33# would be for sure big enough for a hurricane, but we don't get those and I'm not anchoring out in much more than calm most times anyhow.

If I go with the Lewmar roller, I have to split the bow light and probably drill and bed 3 bolt holes thru the deck. I think I can drill the holes (might have to have a drink first - I hate drilling pristine fiberglass). Do you think I should get a chain lock for the leader on the rode to make sure it doesn't launch underway?

Any advice on this is always appreciated.

Thanks.
 
Ramblin' - I received a quote for around $3.5K which included a full installation, a free drop windless, 200' of line, 10' of chain, split navigation lights, anchor swivel, ss anchor roller 26" pre-drilled with backer, and wire kit. I will probably go ahead with the project in the spring when the shrink wrap comes off. Hope this helped.
 
Jack - that sounds about right from what I've seen. Anchor rode, anchor, roller, etc. $1K; Windlass, switch $1K; labor and extras easy $1.5K. I'm kinda jealous, but I've got some other stuff I have to get in this years budget.
 
That roller should be fine. You don't need a self launching roller, since you will be tending the anchor/rode. You will definitely want a chain lock . . . make sure it fits in the chain link, but is fairly beefy.

Before I added the windlass, i went with just the bow roller and claw anchor, along with a chain lock. The force of the anchor attempting to move while going through rough seas bent the pin on the chain lock. . . . so there can be a lot of force wanting launch the anchor unexpectedly.
 
Hey Ted, where?d you get the plate that screws onto the bow to protect the fiberglass as the anchor is coming up? I don?t even know what to call that.


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