FORMULA 45 - ANCHORING
- Thread starter SAPONE
- Start date
I don't own a 45 (it's on my wish list)but I do a lot of anchoring out. When I anchor in high winds I head upwind start letting out the hook and let the wind back me down. In very high winds I may use a little foward throttle. The key is how much scope you put out. You must take into consideration tide changes especially if you are staying overnight and want to sleep well. In calm seas I put out 3 to4 times the water depth plus tide rise height. Your bow is probably 5 to 6 feet above the waterline so you have to add for that. If I'm in rough water I will put out 7 to 8 times scope plus give for tide change and height of bow. You can't put out to much scope as long as you have enough swing room.
Thanks gwazoo,
My problem is constant swinging. The boat swings and pivots around the point where the chain passes over the bow rollers. The bow rollers are aft of the bow. I haven't experienced this constant swinging with past Sea Rays having conventional drives and rudders. I'm suspecting that a lot of this swinging may
be attributed to the IPS drives and no rudders.
My problem is constant swinging. The boat swings and pivots around the point where the chain passes over the bow rollers. The bow rollers are aft of the bow. I haven't experienced this constant swinging with past Sea Rays having conventional drives and rudders. I'm suspecting that a lot of this swinging may
be attributed to the IPS drives and no rudders.
seas the day
New member
For anchoring our Formula's as we have an all chain rode, one needs to use a nylon line to secure the anchor. This has several benefits 1) take the stress off the winch capstan, 2)the elasticity of 15-20' of nylon line will prevent a sudden gust from popping your anchor and 3) also at least on a 31 PC, to prevent the gel coat beneath the roller Assembly from getting chipped. If you plan on anchoring in 20-25 knot plus winds, then it is much nicer if you use a double nylon line with one line going to the bow port and starboard cleats. The line should be for a 45' between 5/8" to 3/4" braided or three strand line. West Marine used to have a plate that would work with chain from 5/16" and up and it would attach to 2 lines and not just one as most of the chain grabbers do.
When you tie off to only one bow cleat, as the boat swings in high wind the line tends to get caught on the very end of the bow or in our case it would also hit up against the spot light.
To minimize your swinging, you can toss a small Danforth (3-5 lbs.) off the stern with about a 3 to 1 scope. No chain is necessary. That's not enough to hold the boat but it will definitely slow the boat down.
When you tie off to only one bow cleat, as the boat swings in high wind the line tends to get caught on the very end of the bow or in our case it would also hit up against the spot light.
To minimize your swinging, you can toss a small Danforth (3-5 lbs.) off the stern with about a 3 to 1 scope. No chain is necessary. That's not enough to hold the boat but it will definitely slow the boat down.
seas the day
New member
Sapone,
Even with my 2005 31 PC, it is not that easy to reach my rode. West Marine sells a "chain grabber" made by ABI for two lines as oppposed to a hook which would work better with a single line.
I've actually changed my anchor rode to 300' 1/2" three strand and 50' of chain last year because I found that an all chain rode was too unwieldy to dingy out in a tight anchorage. But for my first 2 seasons, I would be able to get the chain grabber in place either by using my boat hook to assist or putting it in place from my inflatable. Removing it is no problem as when the chain is pulled in and the nylon snubber line slackens, the chain grabber would release and I would then pull in one of the 2 nylon lines.
Also, most modern cruisers ( not just Formula )come standard with anchors that aren't really for heavy weather. If you look at the ratings for the size boat, the anchor supplied standard is really near the minimum needed. When I purchased my 31, I took a friend out for dinner. He used to sail alot and when he saw my nice new shiny Bruce anchor and his comment was "nice anchor but I wouldn't want to sleep on it". Now I've been anchoring in all sorts of places for many years even with my past 23' 1972 Formula with a 13# Delta and an all nylon line rode without dragging. A few weeks after that dinner, we cruised to Nantucket as part of a cruise in the North East. We dropped our anchor and at least an 8 to 1 scope. We backed down hard on the anchor to set her. That night the wind picked up to probably 25 knots and when I looked out the V-berth window at about 1:30 AM, something was not right. I went top side to check my position on my GPS where I had set a waypoint where we had anchored. We had dragged over a 1/4 mi. Luckily, my inflatable which is secured to the swim platform with Weaver davits had gotten an empty mooring ball wedged between the farthest stern tube of the inflatable and the outboard. The boat's anchor was still providing some drag. I can tell you it was no fun trying to pull my anchor and pick up a mooring at 2 AM in 25 knot winds. I could hear my friend's words reverberating that night.
The following season, I was able to shoe horn into the roller assembley a 33# Bruce which has never failed. We went back to Nantucket last summer to try again and it again blew really hard for 2 1/2 days. We swang quite a bit but we never dragged.
Even with my 2005 31 PC, it is not that easy to reach my rode. West Marine sells a "chain grabber" made by ABI for two lines as oppposed to a hook which would work better with a single line.
I've actually changed my anchor rode to 300' 1/2" three strand and 50' of chain last year because I found that an all chain rode was too unwieldy to dingy out in a tight anchorage. But for my first 2 seasons, I would be able to get the chain grabber in place either by using my boat hook to assist or putting it in place from my inflatable. Removing it is no problem as when the chain is pulled in and the nylon snubber line slackens, the chain grabber would release and I would then pull in one of the 2 nylon lines.
Also, most modern cruisers ( not just Formula )come standard with anchors that aren't really for heavy weather. If you look at the ratings for the size boat, the anchor supplied standard is really near the minimum needed. When I purchased my 31, I took a friend out for dinner. He used to sail alot and when he saw my nice new shiny Bruce anchor and his comment was "nice anchor but I wouldn't want to sleep on it". Now I've been anchoring in all sorts of places for many years even with my past 23' 1972 Formula with a 13# Delta and an all nylon line rode without dragging. A few weeks after that dinner, we cruised to Nantucket as part of a cruise in the North East. We dropped our anchor and at least an 8 to 1 scope. We backed down hard on the anchor to set her. That night the wind picked up to probably 25 knots and when I looked out the V-berth window at about 1:30 AM, something was not right. I went top side to check my position on my GPS where I had set a waypoint where we had anchored. We had dragged over a 1/4 mi. Luckily, my inflatable which is secured to the swim platform with Weaver davits had gotten an empty mooring ball wedged between the farthest stern tube of the inflatable and the outboard. The boat's anchor was still providing some drag. I can tell you it was no fun trying to pull my anchor and pick up a mooring at 2 AM in 25 knot winds. I could hear my friend's words reverberating that night.
The following season, I was able to shoe horn into the roller assembley a 33# Bruce which has never failed. We went back to Nantucket last summer to try again and it again blew really hard for 2 1/2 days. We swang quite a bit but we never dragged.
I had this problem with my '07 31PC. For me, the swinging was not the problem, it was the sudden stop and jerking of the boat. This occurs due to the all-chain rode. Obviously the chain does not stretch like a nylon rode will. This is how I solved it:
1. Obtain these parts - Approx. 15' to 20' of 5/8" or 3/4" 3-strand nylon (for the weight of a 45' boat).
2. Purchase the largest marine stainless carabiner that will fit thru the opening in your chain link.
3. A marine stainless shackle of the same material diameter as the carabiner.
Make a "snubber" as follows:
1. Connect the shackle to the carabiner thru the "eye" at the bottom of the carabiner.
2. Fold the 15' 3-strand line in half to make a loop end.
3. Pass the "loop" end thru the shackle that is connected to the carabiner leaving the loop about 5-6" out of the shackle.
4. Take the opposite ends of the folded line; the two loose ends; and pass them thru the loop, then cinch it tightly.
You now have an assembly. To use as a "snubber", after dropping and setting anchor, lay down and reach over bow down to your chain. Attach the carabiner to the closest link you can reach.
Take one end of the line and secure it to the starboard bow cleat and the other to the port bow cleat.
Now, drop some additional chain from the windlass until the two nylon lines are tight and you have a "swag" of chain with no tension on it from the anchor pulpit to the point where the carabiner attaches to the chain.
The length of line from the two bow cleats to the chain can vary, but they should be as close to the same length each as possible.
The boat will now swing putting tension on one nylon line, then the other. No sudden stopping..no jerking! It works great for us and it is an effective yet very inexpensive and easy fix. It takes no more than two to three minutes to set-up.
You may get some chafing as the line will lay against the deck of the bow and rub as the boat swings, but, you can experiment with various materials around the lines at the contact points.
Good luck!
1. Obtain these parts - Approx. 15' to 20' of 5/8" or 3/4" 3-strand nylon (for the weight of a 45' boat).
2. Purchase the largest marine stainless carabiner that will fit thru the opening in your chain link.
3. A marine stainless shackle of the same material diameter as the carabiner.
Make a "snubber" as follows:
1. Connect the shackle to the carabiner thru the "eye" at the bottom of the carabiner.
2. Fold the 15' 3-strand line in half to make a loop end.
3. Pass the "loop" end thru the shackle that is connected to the carabiner leaving the loop about 5-6" out of the shackle.
4. Take the opposite ends of the folded line; the two loose ends; and pass them thru the loop, then cinch it tightly.
You now have an assembly. To use as a "snubber", after dropping and setting anchor, lay down and reach over bow down to your chain. Attach the carabiner to the closest link you can reach.
Take one end of the line and secure it to the starboard bow cleat and the other to the port bow cleat.
Now, drop some additional chain from the windlass until the two nylon lines are tight and you have a "swag" of chain with no tension on it from the anchor pulpit to the point where the carabiner attaches to the chain.
The length of line from the two bow cleats to the chain can vary, but they should be as close to the same length each as possible.
The boat will now swing putting tension on one nylon line, then the other. No sudden stopping..no jerking! It works great for us and it is an effective yet very inexpensive and easy fix. It takes no more than two to three minutes to set-up.
You may get some chafing as the line will lay against the deck of the bow and rub as the boat swings, but, you can experiment with various materials around the lines at the contact points.
Good luck!Hi Rick,
Thanks for your very detailed and clear explanation of a snubber assembly for my 45.
Looks like you and "seas the day" have both given this a lot of thought and come to similar conclusions.
I'm going to try your suggestions, but still have concerns about reaching/attaching something to my rode.
The bow of the 45 has a lot of flare, and I am not a large person. I suppose I will have to rely on my wife hanging onto my feet when I go over the bow !
"seas the day" suggests a chain grabber from West Marine, but I haven't been able to find it.
West Marine has a Bridle Plate Mooring System ( pg 268 of 2008 catalog ), but it looks very heavy and is also expensive. I don't think this is what he is suggesting.
You suggest a carabiner with an eye at the bottom. Pg 1182 of West Marine has a 4" Model 116020. Is this what you have in mind ? I don't know the diameter, but assume it will pass thru my 5/16" dia. chain links ( 1/2" min opening ). What is your preference for a carabiner verses a Quick Link ( pg 1171 of catalog ), or another shackle ? I like the simplicity of the carabiner, but it is not very strong as compared to a shackle. I guess the carabiner and Quick Link have about the same SWL. The Quick Link would be much harder to attach/remove. Same goes for another shackle....I would probably drop the pin overboard.
Approximate strengths:
5/16 " chain = 3,900 lb SWL, and 11,600 lb breaking strength
5/8 " nylon line = + 10,000 lb breaking strength
3/8" stainless shackle = 2,000 lb SWL
3/8" Quick Link = 4,200 lb breaking strength
4" carabiner = 750 lb SWL
Again, thanks for all your help.
My last boat was a Sea Ray 380 Sundancer which I kept in the Bahamas. I used the anchor and chain/rope rode which came from Sea Ray and never had any problems anchoring, but had to repair/replace the rode every year due to wear at the chain/rope braid.
I swore to never have another chain/rope rode.
I expect to spend a lot of time in the Bahamas on my 45. I only have 40 hours on the 45 ( and only one miserable night at anchor ). So far, I like everything about the Formula except anchoring.
I also managed to plug up the chain locker drain with mud on my only night at anchor. The drain is too small and I will probably install a larger drain if I have more problems.
Thanks for your very detailed and clear explanation of a snubber assembly for my 45.
Looks like you and "seas the day" have both given this a lot of thought and come to similar conclusions.
I'm going to try your suggestions, but still have concerns about reaching/attaching something to my rode.
The bow of the 45 has a lot of flare, and I am not a large person. I suppose I will have to rely on my wife hanging onto my feet when I go over the bow !
"seas the day" suggests a chain grabber from West Marine, but I haven't been able to find it.
West Marine has a Bridle Plate Mooring System ( pg 268 of 2008 catalog ), but it looks very heavy and is also expensive. I don't think this is what he is suggesting.
You suggest a carabiner with an eye at the bottom. Pg 1182 of West Marine has a 4" Model 116020. Is this what you have in mind ? I don't know the diameter, but assume it will pass thru my 5/16" dia. chain links ( 1/2" min opening ). What is your preference for a carabiner verses a Quick Link ( pg 1171 of catalog ), or another shackle ? I like the simplicity of the carabiner, but it is not very strong as compared to a shackle. I guess the carabiner and Quick Link have about the same SWL. The Quick Link would be much harder to attach/remove. Same goes for another shackle....I would probably drop the pin overboard.
Approximate strengths:
5/16 " chain = 3,900 lb SWL, and 11,600 lb breaking strength
5/8 " nylon line = + 10,000 lb breaking strength
3/8" stainless shackle = 2,000 lb SWL
3/8" Quick Link = 4,200 lb breaking strength
4" carabiner = 750 lb SWL
Again, thanks for all your help.
My last boat was a Sea Ray 380 Sundancer which I kept in the Bahamas. I used the anchor and chain/rope rode which came from Sea Ray and never had any problems anchoring, but had to repair/replace the rode every year due to wear at the chain/rope braid.
I swore to never have another chain/rope rode.
I expect to spend a lot of time in the Bahamas on my 45. I only have 40 hours on the 45 ( and only one miserable night at anchor ). So far, I like everything about the Formula except anchoring.
I also managed to plug up the chain locker drain with mud on my only night at anchor. The drain is too small and I will probably install a larger drain if I have more problems.
I am not a fan of the anchor either. I am going to try the bridle trick also.
This is the only boat that has broken free and i needed help to get off the shore with just a few abrasions on the hull. But in saying that this is the largest boat we have owned also.
We anchored out for years and Dawn is a little skittish now for the first time.
Good luck Randy
This is the only boat that has broken free and i needed help to get off the shore with just a few abrasions on the hull. But in saying that this is the largest boat we have owned also.
We anchored out for years and Dawn is a little skittish now for the first time.
Good luck Randy
SAPONE,
My boats an hour away and I don't remember the size of the carabiner I used, but it is smaller than 4".
I inspect it for signs of stretching after each use and it looks as good as day one.
I suppose you could calculate the load on it under a given wind condition and the weight of a 45' Yacht to determine if a 4" one is sufficiently strong.
My set-up works perfectly and we've used this snubber in 15-20 kt winds a half dozen times with no issues.
Like you, before I used this, my boat would swing, and when reaching the end of the swing, literally jerk me out of the forward birth! The chain would ride up and out of the rubber rollers, chewing it up as it goes, slap hard against the s.s. side plates of the davit, destroying it eventually, and allowing the chain to contact the gelcoat chipping it.
I had it repaired by the dealer under warranty, but they had no solution for the problem.
I actually bought 200' of 3-strand and was going to replace the chain, but, thought of this after seeing a similar set-up on a 40'+ long sailboat anchored in one of our favorite gunkholes. Swinging is a non-issue now. 8)
My boats an hour away and I don't remember the size of the carabiner I used, but it is smaller than 4".
I inspect it for signs of stretching after each use and it looks as good as day one.
I suppose you could calculate the load on it under a given wind condition and the weight of a 45' Yacht to determine if a 4" one is sufficiently strong.
My set-up works perfectly and we've used this snubber in 15-20 kt winds a half dozen times with no issues.
Like you, before I used this, my boat would swing, and when reaching the end of the swing, literally jerk me out of the forward birth! The chain would ride up and out of the rubber rollers, chewing it up as it goes, slap hard against the s.s. side plates of the davit, destroying it eventually, and allowing the chain to contact the gelcoat chipping it.
I had it repaired by the dealer under warranty, but they had no solution for the problem.
I actually bought 200' of 3-strand and was going to replace the chain, but, thought of this after seeing a similar set-up on a 40'+ long sailboat anchored in one of our favorite gunkholes. Swinging is a non-issue now. 8)
Rick,
I guess we shouldn't have to worry too much about the strength of the carabiner. If it should fail, then the anchor chain would take over ( with quite a jolt and noise ).
I, too, am having problems with the chain bearing against the sheet metal bow roller enclosure.
When the chain under high tension contacts the enclosure, the chain links rotate until the "flat" side of a link bears against the lower corner of the enclosure. When this happens, there is a very loud "pop" as the link flips and snaps to the flat position.
I am discussing this problem with Formula.
I hope I haven't bought a fair weather boat which is going to have to be in a marina every night.
I'm going to try some kind of a snubber as you have suggested, but am not sure it is going to work because the deck cleats are so far aft that the snubber rope may still shear off the spot light.
This will require some trial and error and monitoring.
Your profile indicates you are in Tampa/St. Pete. Did you purchase your boat from Passport ?
Does Passport still exist ?
I guess we shouldn't have to worry too much about the strength of the carabiner. If it should fail, then the anchor chain would take over ( with quite a jolt and noise ).
I, too, am having problems with the chain bearing against the sheet metal bow roller enclosure.
When the chain under high tension contacts the enclosure, the chain links rotate until the "flat" side of a link bears against the lower corner of the enclosure. When this happens, there is a very loud "pop" as the link flips and snaps to the flat position.
I am discussing this problem with Formula.
I hope I haven't bought a fair weather boat which is going to have to be in a marina every night.
I'm going to try some kind of a snubber as you have suggested, but am not sure it is going to work because the deck cleats are so far aft that the snubber rope may still shear off the spot light.
This will require some trial and error and monitoring.
Your profile indicates you are in Tampa/St. Pete. Did you purchase your boat from Passport ?
Does Passport still exist ?
seas the day
New member
ABI
Chain Grabber
Only $25.99 USD
Click to compare
Chain Grabber
Only $25.99 USD
Click to compare
seas the day
New member
The plate for the "grabber" can release and actually it should release when the tension to it's lines slacken. I have never had a problem with twisting of the chain causing it to pop off. Most of the "approved" means of securing a snubber to a chain rode will release when slackened. This can make readjusting the length of rode deployed some what difficult. On the flip side is that you may want to get your snubber off in a hurry, ie. pulling out of a harbor when it's blowing or you have to quickly readjust you rode either more or less.
I love using caribiners but they are not designed for this function. The problem with caribiners, is their lack of strength. They will deform if too much pull is placed on them. They in fact may not open but then you might need some tools to get them off your rode. And when one is achored in a blow, you really don't want your snubber to "let go". Yes, the chain will still be there but if conditions are that bad it would not be a "fun" time. Sometimes when cruising one doesn't have much choice about the weather that passes through. Fixing your ground tackle in a blow sucks at any time, but it's much worse in the middle of the night.
If you aren't sure about using ABI's grabber, you could consider using a chain hook. They have the same strength as the chain they attach to. You could then still secure 2 separate lines through a shackle to the eye of the hook. Then either with the plate or the hook you can place the snubber on your chain rode with your boat hook when the rode is taught. The weight of the chain rode will keep enough tension on your snubber so that the hook or your grabber plate will not disengage till you take the slack out of your rode between the windlass and the snubber.
Lastly, one can never have too many anchors on board. In addition to my 33# Bruce, I also have the smallest Fortress which I typically use as a stern anchor, then I have both a 7# and 13# galvanized Danforth and finally, I have a Gaurdian by Fortress Gx-37. The latter stays in a cardura storage bag disassembled. It comes with 2 combo wrenchs of the appropriate size. It assembles in minutes. That anchor is meant for mid 40' boats and is my storm anchor on my 31'.
I actually use a caribiner on my light weight Fortress. The caribiner allows me to change set ups very quickly. One time there were 2 other large cruises rafted up next to my boat. We had most of the wind blowing off our stern. No one else had any lines off their sterns that were doing anything. When it was time to pull up, I found my little Fortess buried about 3' down in the sand but the caribiner was trashed and could not be opened till I could get a hammer to it.
I love using caribiners but they are not designed for this function. The problem with caribiners, is their lack of strength. They will deform if too much pull is placed on them. They in fact may not open but then you might need some tools to get them off your rode. And when one is achored in a blow, you really don't want your snubber to "let go". Yes, the chain will still be there but if conditions are that bad it would not be a "fun" time. Sometimes when cruising one doesn't have much choice about the weather that passes through. Fixing your ground tackle in a blow sucks at any time, but it's much worse in the middle of the night.
If you aren't sure about using ABI's grabber, you could consider using a chain hook. They have the same strength as the chain they attach to. You could then still secure 2 separate lines through a shackle to the eye of the hook. Then either with the plate or the hook you can place the snubber on your chain rode with your boat hook when the rode is taught. The weight of the chain rode will keep enough tension on your snubber so that the hook or your grabber plate will not disengage till you take the slack out of your rode between the windlass and the snubber.
Lastly, one can never have too many anchors on board. In addition to my 33# Bruce, I also have the smallest Fortress which I typically use as a stern anchor, then I have both a 7# and 13# galvanized Danforth and finally, I have a Gaurdian by Fortress Gx-37. The latter stays in a cardura storage bag disassembled. It comes with 2 combo wrenchs of the appropriate size. It assembles in minutes. That anchor is meant for mid 40' boats and is my storm anchor on my 31'.
I actually use a caribiner on my light weight Fortress. The caribiner allows me to change set ups very quickly. One time there were 2 other large cruises rafted up next to my boat. We had most of the wind blowing off our stern. No one else had any lines off their sterns that were doing anything. When it was time to pull up, I found my little Fortess buried about 3' down in the sand but the caribiner was trashed and could not be opened till I could get a hammer to it.
Thanks for all your suggestions and sharing your experiences.
Most of my anchoring experience has been in the Bahamas in wide open areas
with plenty of room to swing. I usually try to anchor over a clean bottom where
I can go down and have a look at how the anchor has set.
I only used a second anchor one time, and that
was due to a shift in the wind which was moving me toward a reef (at night).
Some folks use the Bahamian twin anchor rig, but there are others who say it is
better to put out plenty of rode and let the boat swing. I don't even have a second
anchor yet, and will be heading to the Bahamas in about a month.
I had another look at my boat today, and am even more concerned that the lines
from a snubber are going to wrap around my spot light. The bow cleats are around 18"
aft of the spot light.
Most of my anchoring experience has been in the Bahamas in wide open areas
with plenty of room to swing. I usually try to anchor over a clean bottom where
I can go down and have a look at how the anchor has set.
I only used a second anchor one time, and that
was due to a shift in the wind which was moving me toward a reef (at night).
Some folks use the Bahamian twin anchor rig, but there are others who say it is
better to put out plenty of rode and let the boat swing. I don't even have a second
anchor yet, and will be heading to the Bahamas in about a month.
I had another look at my boat today, and am even more concerned that the lines
from a snubber are going to wrap around my spot light. The bow cleats are around 18"
aft of the spot light.
SAPONE,
Yes I purchased w/Passport in St. Pete.
And you're right; they stopped servicing boats approx. one month ago and I understand they have closed their doors now.
I'm hoping Formula will find a dealer for this area again soon. To be honest, I don't know how they can afford not to!
This is boating paradise and I'm certain Formula will want to continue a presence in the Tampa market.
I addressed the issue of chain damage with Formula and they repaired the chipped gelcoat and replaced the anchor davit and roller...but didn't offer a solution to the problem.
It happened again and they fixed it again. Then...the Formula dealer rep sent a pair of s.s. angle pieces to wrap around the pulpit opening for the chain to contact in lieu of the gelcoat. By the time the angles arrived and the dealer installed them, I came up with the fix I'm using. I suggest you ask Formula to supply you with the angles. I believe they cost around $147 pr!!
If you e-mail me, I'll send you photos of the angle pieces installed.
Yes I purchased w/Passport in St. Pete.
And you're right; they stopped servicing boats approx. one month ago and I understand they have closed their doors now.
I'm hoping Formula will find a dealer for this area again soon. To be honest, I don't know how they can afford not to!
This is boating paradise and I'm certain Formula will want to continue a presence in the Tampa market.
I addressed the issue of chain damage with Formula and they repaired the chipped gelcoat and replaced the anchor davit and roller...but didn't offer a solution to the problem.
It happened again and they fixed it again. Then...the Formula dealer rep sent a pair of s.s. angle pieces to wrap around the pulpit opening for the chain to contact in lieu of the gelcoat. By the time the angles arrived and the dealer installed them, I came up with the fix I'm using. I suggest you ask Formula to supply you with the angles. I believe they cost around $147 pr!!
If you e-mail me, I'll send you photos of the angle pieces installed.
Rick,
I'd like to see the photos of the angles. You can email to bettyannejohnson@bellsouth.net
Your email address is not listed in your profile.
I'm still waiting to find out what other 45 owners are doing.....I can't be the only one to drop the hook.
Formula is looking into this, but haven't come up with anything yet.
Sorry to hear about Passport. I bought my 45 from them in St. Pete, but everything was done via the internet or over the phone. I've never seen the dealership. I took delivery in Jacksonville through a yard approved by Formula. My nearest dealer now is Passport in Aventura, if they are still operating. They have already closed down their service department.
I'd like to see the photos of the angles. You can email to bettyannejohnson@bellsouth.net
Your email address is not listed in your profile.
I'm still waiting to find out what other 45 owners are doing.....I can't be the only one to drop the hook.
Formula is looking into this, but haven't come up with anything yet.
Sorry to hear about Passport. I bought my 45 from them in St. Pete, but everything was done via the internet or over the phone. I've never seen the dealership. I took delivery in Jacksonville through a yard approved by Formula. My nearest dealer now is Passport in Aventura, if they are still operating. They have already closed down their service department.