Gimbal bearing gone bad


RDOBROSKI

New member
Each year I have the drives pulled and serviced to include inspection, grease, etc. Well this year, they discovered the starboard gimbal bearing went bad. Had rust on it so they replaced. That was no big deal. What worries me is the technician said he saw no signs of water intrusion and all other stuff was fine - U Joints, bellows, etc... He further stated he does not have a good explanantion other thatn possible some splash back from the front. I was always taught that if the gimbal bearing went bad, then you MUST HAVE water intrusion from somewhere. Thoughts?
 
was the bearing actually bad or was there a little rust on the outer surface of the bearing. that could have gotten there for condensation . if the bearing isn't rough when turning I leave them, just curious
 
He said there was rust on it and asked me if I heard any noise coming from it. I said NO and he said well I think we should replace while it is hauled before it goes completely bad next year during the season. He was very confused that he could not find any water intrusion.
 
Hot tip when you grease these things from the outside fitting, pump the gun at last 7-10 times per time when you hit it. The drilled hole for the grease to reach the bearing is sort of long and 1 or 2 pumps won't reach the $40 bearing which cost $300- 450 to replace. Then IF the bearing retainer goes bad because of the bearing scoring it your looking at $1000.-1200 bill, :eek:
 
I replaced the gimbal bearing when I switched drives because mine was rough when I reached in and turned it. The bearing for the alpa assembly was 110.00 so 40.00 sounds pretty good. I saw no evidence of water in mine and no rust it was just worn out I guess. It had been changed before though because the two grooves were facing back and not to the front. Thank God cause I would have never gotten the thing out. I would ask my mechanic if he saved the old bearing to see if it ad roughness when turned.
 
:eek:CHECK YOUR ENGINE ALLINMENT GUYS! IF YOUR PIMARY SHAFT IS PUTTING TO MUCH PRESSURE TO ONE SIDE OF YOUR GIMBAL BEARING,IT WILL CAUSE OVERWEAR TO BEARINGS AND THE SHAVINGS WILL WREACK HAVOC ON EVERYTHING. TRUST ME GET THE LINE UP CHECKED.
 
Gimbal bearing cost at West Marine $40-50, Serra brand. Wholesale cost at Mercruiser outlet is $30., retail is $50 list. If your paying more this your are getting ........ :eek:
 
If the bearing isn't rough to the feel I would leave it there. If you need to replace a 5# slide hammer will get the old one out and then the new one can go back in making sure that the notches are facing back then next time pivit out the old and in with the new. line up everything and good to go.
 
SOME VOLVO PENTA GIMBALL BEARINGS ARE HELD IN PLACE WITH A LARGE SNAP RING. DON'T START TRYING TO BANG IT OUT WITH A SLIDEHAMMER, UNTIL YOU CHECK FOR THE RING.
 
Its not the cost of the actual bearing that is pricey its the labor to do the work!! I just had both gimbal bearings and U-joints replaced due to intrusion. Ended up replacing all the bellows, cables and senders as well. Like new now. Always check the drives after each season for proper alignment, grease u-joints, replace gasket kits, change gear lube and grease all fittings! The person who owned the boat before didn't!!!!
 
On my B3 the gimbal bearing has a snap ring that needs to be removed before you slap hammer it out.

The bad news is that the Gimbal Ring is poorly designed POS and the casting alone costs $937. and there is a backlog of those items. When you see a drawing of how the steering pin is attached to the Gimbal Ring you won't belive what you see........... a muffler clamp! High teck from Mercruiser !
 
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