how to remove sliding door from cockpit to salon
- Thread starter seadoc3
- Start date
Isotherm Refrig will fit without removing the door. I have done it.
In case you choose to remove the door, remove the latch from the right side of the jamb. Close door all the way, and have someone inside and out.
Remove the nuts and bolts that hold the nylon slides to the door. Should be two sets on the top and bottom, totaling 12 bolts. once removed, have inside persom lift straight up with door still closed, and it will come out of the jamb. Cannot remember if all the inside trim needs removed or not.
In case you choose to remove the door, remove the latch from the right side of the jamb. Close door all the way, and have someone inside and out.
Remove the nuts and bolts that hold the nylon slides to the door. Should be two sets on the top and bottom, totaling 12 bolts. once removed, have inside persom lift straight up with door still closed, and it will come out of the jamb. Cannot remember if all the inside trim needs removed or not.
Took off the wood door. Nothing is wrong with my fridge,,it is the mechanics of the door. Have any of you just left the door off and what cosmetic modification did you do? I will need a latch. ,,plastic or is the stainless one more secure?
There is a flush mounting frame in place. Also there is a faux cherry panel on the door under the black one.
Formula now puts the stainless fridge door onto a cherry panel that is flush in line with the cabinets. That would be a lot for me to hire,,better for you guys who can do that yourself.
Appreciate any ideas.
There is a flush mounting frame in place. Also there is a faux cherry panel on the door under the black one.
Formula now puts the stainless fridge door onto a cherry panel that is flush in line with the cabinets. That would be a lot for me to hire,,better for you guys who can do that yourself.
Appreciate any ideas.
Seadoc,
If you leave the door on, reach underneath to feel if the door gasket is making contact. It should be sealing correctly, but sometimes it does not. I installed a block of wood to the bottom of the inside of the cherry door to give the inner door an even push, so that the gasket seals itself. I also had to play with the top arm that closes the inner door. It was never adjusted properly from the Factory. Moved the bracket to a different location to solve this problem.
If you leave the door on, reach underneath to feel if the door gasket is making contact. It should be sealing correctly, but sometimes it does not. I installed a block of wood to the bottom of the inside of the cherry door to give the inner door an even push, so that the gasket seals itself. I also had to play with the top arm that closes the inner door. It was never adjusted properly from the Factory. Moved the bracket to a different location to solve this problem.
Seadoc,
Much like GSENT's wood block, Formula now makes a white teflon spacer block that is intended to go between the outside door, and the fridge door. It just sticks on the back of the outer door with double sided tape.
Note that since the outer door and the inner fridge door are mated, proper closure of the fridge door is highly dependent on proper adjustment of the outer door. The outer door comes out of adjustment over time from the boat banging thru waves, ect...., and occasional attention is needed to keep it in appropriate adjustment. Another way mis-adjustment occurs is by pushing down on the outside-top of the outer door while it is open. It's a natural thing to do, especially when standing back up after reaching low in the fridge. Helping oneself stand back up by pushing down on the door while it is open is a no-no though, which will without a doubt, cause the outer door to become out of adjustment. End result....an inner fridge door that does not seal correctly due to the physical connection between the inner and outer doors.
Keep the outer door properly adjusted, keep weight off of it while open, and install the Formula block mentioned above, and your troubles will be over.
Much like GSENT's wood block, Formula now makes a white teflon spacer block that is intended to go between the outside door, and the fridge door. It just sticks on the back of the outer door with double sided tape.
Note that since the outer door and the inner fridge door are mated, proper closure of the fridge door is highly dependent on proper adjustment of the outer door. The outer door comes out of adjustment over time from the boat banging thru waves, ect...., and occasional attention is needed to keep it in appropriate adjustment. Another way mis-adjustment occurs is by pushing down on the outside-top of the outer door while it is open. It's a natural thing to do, especially when standing back up after reaching low in the fridge. Helping oneself stand back up by pushing down on the door while it is open is a no-no though, which will without a doubt, cause the outer door to become out of adjustment. End result....an inner fridge door that does not seal correctly due to the physical connection between the inner and outer doors.
Keep the outer door properly adjusted, keep weight off of it while open, and install the Formula block mentioned above, and your troubles will be over.
toofast
Active member
I actually couldn't take it anymore, the design is just plain silly. I took off my "white space" and I know just open the door independent of each other.
No more issues and my fridge always seals nicely.
Oh, and the "retrofit" to the new design is nearly impossible - you would have to order all new cabinets, etc....I guess a super skilled DIY guy could do it, but TONS of work and not sure it would ever look clean.
No more issues and my fridge always seals nicely.
Oh, and the "retrofit" to the new design is nearly impossible - you would have to order all new cabinets, etc....I guess a super skilled DIY guy could do it, but TONS of work and not sure it would ever look clean.
toofast said:
What about when you are in wake, waves, ect....? I thought about doing the same when I first encountered issues, but was concerned that nothing would hold the fridge door shut with all the motion. Doing as you have done, it seems that leaving the spacer block installed would have been good insurance. What are your thoughts J?
Seadoc,
Regardless of how you choose to proceed, it is important to resolve any door seal issues without much delay. Improper sealing of the door leads to premature compressor failure, this from it running nearly continuously due to the conditioned air leaking out. This scenario is what caused my original fridge to fail within the first couple months of its life. And then there's also the nuisance problem of your freezer section quickly filling with frost due to the constant introduction of moisture thru the compromised seal if/when the compressor is not running.
Regardless of how you choose to proceed, it is important to resolve any door seal issues without much delay. Improper sealing of the door leads to premature compressor failure, this from it running nearly continuously due to the conditioned air leaking out. This scenario is what caused my original fridge to fail within the first couple months of its life. And then there's also the nuisance problem of your freezer section quickly filling with frost due to the constant introduction of moisture thru the compromised seal if/when the compressor is not running.
Formula Tenn
New member
so the outer wood door is what latches the fridge door shut? my isotherm has a latch that came with it so if you decide to just leave the wood panel off, the latch can be purchased seperately, here is a link. mine is like the black one at the top of the page: http://www.isotherm-parts.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=15_22
First..many thanks for the replies....
Never do we put pressure on door. Readjusted . Put 2 blocks of plastic from Formula..but I think that it is still not enough. Black panel ove ranother panel on the face of the fridge probably "gives" a bit. Gasket is in good shape & no air leakage. There is no closing latch on the door so will order one.
My tech had removed wood door & turned it off. I taped door shut and turned it on. Promptly went to 42 degrees. Freezer with no frost.
There is a black flush mount holding it in. Will decide on cosmetics later. Have had it with the wood door.
There is a latch that can be bought from the same link Formula Tenn put up to keep secure in rough weather.
Just glad I had done everything so far.
Will take off the black panel & put a faux cherry one on. think the one there is lighter.
Thx
Never do we put pressure on door. Readjusted . Put 2 blocks of plastic from Formula..but I think that it is still not enough. Black panel ove ranother panel on the face of the fridge probably "gives" a bit. Gasket is in good shape & no air leakage. There is no closing latch on the door so will order one.
My tech had removed wood door & turned it off. I taped door shut and turned it on. Promptly went to 42 degrees. Freezer with no frost.
There is a black flush mount holding it in. Will decide on cosmetics later. Have had it with the wood door.
There is a latch that can be bought from the same link Formula Tenn put up to keep secure in rough weather.
Just glad I had done everything so far.
Will take off the black panel & put a faux cherry one on. think the one there is lighter.
Thx