New to me 2003 Formula 280 SS


A

Aquasition

New member
Hi.
Just purchased a beautiful 280 SS and want to share my experiences with the vessel, and probably seek your collective knowledge on these beautiful boats to help me solve possible issues. This is my 3rd boat and it will be used in Lake Travis just North of Austin Texas. she is powered by a single Mercruiser 496 and Bravo 3 dual props. My first issue if the hour meter is blank. Either it was disconnected, or the LCD display is not working. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks.
 

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Run two wires from the battery to the meter and check to see if it works. This will tell you if it has power or not.
 
Aquasition said:
Hi.
Just purchased a beautiful 280 SS and want to share my experiences with the vessel, and probably seek your collective knowledge on these beautiful boats to help me solve possible issues. This is my 3rd boat and it will be used in Lake Travis just North of Austin Texas. she is powered by a single Mercruiser 496 and Bravo 3 dual props. My first issue if the hour meter is blank. Either it was disconnected, or the LCD display is not working. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Click to expand...

Awesome boat, congrats!!!
 
I did not realize that the 280's still had a single engine as an option. Most are a twin 5.7L setup. Let us know how it goes.
 
I considered twins during my search, but ultimately opted for a single power plant
The closed cooled circuit 496 pushed the boat to 46 mph at WOT, and I was very happy with that performance
To me, the power-to-weigth ratio with a single 496 is advantageous, compared to twins
In addition, I like the "simpler" maintenance and extra room inside the engine compartment.
cheers
 
Hi again
I need to bug the group with a dummy question, if I may.
This is my first boat with shore power and I am confused as to what to do
So there is a panel for 120V shore power with a green ligth showing AC available
Next to it there is a panel for 12v power with switches as well
Engine compartment has a large battery charger with an analog Amp meter
And of course there is a normal battery switch 1 2 all off
So my basic question is this
With the boat on the lift, hooked to the shore power, what should I do with the battery switch, with the 12V panel etc, in order to have radio , courtesy ligths, instrument ligths etc and be sure batteries are being charged and not drained?
Thanks
 
On my 350 (twin 496 mag HOs, also on a lift connected to shore power), the procedure I follow after returning to my dock is: 1) shut down generator, 2) turn all panel switches off, AC and DC, 3) turn off both battery switches, 4) make sure the main 1 and main 2 breakers are off, 5) connect shore power, 6) switch on main 1 and main 2 breakers, 7) go to panel and transfer power from generator to main 1 and main 2, and then watch for the meter to confirm good AC power on both main 1 and main 2, 8) flip on the AC circuits that I want to be on, including TV, battery charger and port and starboard AC outlets, 9) flip on DC switches that I want to remain on, including cabin lights and stereo. So long story, but I do not leave the battery switches on while connected to shore power. I only turn them back on when I want to start the engines.
 
Well that helped some
What do you consider "good power" when you watch the Ampmeter?
So at the end of your procedure your scenario will have both AC and DC breakers switched to ON, and Battery switches on OFF and all desired "appliances" switched on regardless if they are on the AC or DC side?
 
By "good power", that was referring to checking for reverse polarity or any fluctuations on main 1 and main 2 ampmeters. Yes, at the end of the procedure some of the DC and some of the AC circuits are on at the electrical panel. On the DC side, all are off except for cabin lights (because I want to be able to turn on the lights as I am entering the cabin) and stereo, and on the AC side I leave on battery charger and the port and starboard AC outlets. On the battery switch panel under the cockpit sink, I leave both switches off, but I leave on the AUX power switch so that I have power for hatch lift. See photos. I circled the switches discussed above for both the cabin electrical panel and for the battery switch panel. I don't know if my procedure is correct, I just assume that a circuit should be off if you're not using it, so I've applied that principle to the battery switches as well as the switches on the electrical panel. It's worked for me so far.

Capture.JPG batt switches.jpg
 
That explanation helped a lot. Many thanks.
My Electric panel does not have a Voltage meter, so I plugged a Polarity light checker in one of the 120V outlet so at least I can see the outlets are powered and the polarity is correct.
On another subject, my courtesy lights are incandescent and pretty hot as usual, so I want to replace the bulbs with LED.
There are 2 types of bulbs at the moment (shown in pic attached). One is a 4mm 2 prong 20W 12VDC bulb, the other is a "wedge type" bulb believed to be 20W or less as well.
Do you recommend I purchase replacement LEDs on the web, or go to a store to find them? thanks folks.
 

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My LEDs that came from Amazon (made in China) have been installed for over 2 years, no issue with them. Makes a huge difference in cabin temps. Mine are only the 2-prong type.
 
I ordered LEDs and plan on taking pics of the interior lighting before and after replacement. Will share with the group. Cheers
 
I replaced every light in the cabin and in the cockpit on my 260ss with led's from www.superbrightleds.com There was a thread somewhere on her that listed all the bulb numbers for any and all Formula ss's. They run cooler and use much less....almost no power consumption from the batteries. They also come in soft white so they look like the oem lights and not like you're in some laboratory.

See this link....good starting point http://formulaboatsforum.com/VBFORUM/showthread.php?5838-Led-lights&highlight=lights

these are also some good links

http://formulaboatsforum.com/VBFORUM/showthread.php?6232-My-260ss-Upgrades/page5&highlight=lights


http://formulaboatsforum.com/VBFORUM/showthread.php?3854-LED-conversion&highlight=lights


http://formulaboatsforum.com/VBFORUM/showthread.php?2403-Easy-LED-cockpit-upgrade&highlight=lights


http://formulaboatsforum.com/VBFORU...-have-them-and-are-you-happy&highlight=lights




THIS IS ALSO A GREAT THREAD FOR ANY NEW SS OWNER


http://formulaboatsforum.com/VBFORUM/showthread.php?6232-My-260ss-Upgrades&highlight=lights
 
Last edited:
update.
LEDs are not in yet, but in the meantime I have replaced the worn plastic covers on the docking lights and upgrade the steering wheel. Pics attached. Thanks for all replies. Cheers
 

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Hi can someone help me remove the light fixtures from the cabin cealing please? I thi

Hi
can someone help me remove the light fixtures from the cabin cealing please? I think the chrome rings are supposed to be twisted but they are extremely hard and refuse to rotate I dont want to force and break the plastic tabs (again) Am I missing something? Thanks a bunch
 

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Looks nice!! Where did you get the steering wheel & docking lights? Mine have that worn plastic look and certainly need to upgrade to LED for a brighter light.
 
I replaced all my cabin lights with LED. If I recall the lens pops off and there are some screws behind it. I replaced the entire light with these under counter lights I found on E-bay. Soldered them and they have clips on the back that just pop back in. They look great, no issues and what a difference in the lighting as well as heat. Since there's no heat they don't attract bugs either!!
 
Aquasition said:
update.
LEDs are not in yet, but in the meantime I have replaced the worn plastic covers on the docking lights and upgrade the steering wheel. Pics attached. Thanks for all replies. Cheers
Click to expand...
Great looking helm. Formula's age gracefully.....always remain classy looking regardless of age!
 
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