Re-installing Bravo III Props - Tips for Beginners


FTL_Alan

FTL_Alan

New member
I have never removed my props myself. I would like to begin doing my own annual maintenance of removing the props and greasing the prop shaft. Today I had to get help from my mechanic to get the props off because both port and starboard back nuts were frozen and needed heat to get them off. Now that the props need to go back on, I want see if I can do this myself. I have the 1-1/2 inch socket needed for the back nut, and I have the Quicksilver tool needed for the large front nut. The last tool I need to buy is a 1/2" drive torque wrench, that can handle the 100 lb. ft. requirement on the front nut, and the 60 lb. ft. requirement on the back nut. Any advice on recommended torque wrench, and tips for putting the props back on is appreciated.
 
IMO, a quality beam type torque wrench would be adequate for your use and application. I don't see the need for the extra expense of a click type other than they are easier to use.
 
Hope there was not enough heat to hurt the seals.

There are many torque wrenches out there, just depends on how much you want to spend. The beam type is the cheapest and works fine. As for me, I remove, grease and reinstall every year and do not use a torque wrench. Use 2x4 to hold the prop and set my elbow
 
Beam type do not require calibration verification. If it lines up with 0 it is ok. They’re harder to read but not nearly as expensive as click type. If you buy one get a name brand. Also can be used for lug nuts. If you get a click type make sure you wind it back to 0 when you’re done. All but one type ( snap on) does not require wind to 0 (costs $300.00).
 
Thanks all, very helpful for a newbie. Who knew? I was able to "borrow" a good click-type torque wrench from AutoZone, and it's free, not like home depot or lowes where you pay a charge for use. Just bring it back to the store within 90 days and get all of the deposit back. This one is by OEM, and can go up to 250 lb.ft.

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Evermore said:
If you get a click type make sure you wind it back to 0 when you’re done. All but one type ( snap on) does not require wind to 0 (costs $300.00).
Click to expand...

Good general knowledge that most people don't know.
 
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The split beam is the clicker type that doesn't need to be reset to zero. It's my understanding that all spring loaded clicker type torque wrench need to be unloaded (rest to zero) when stored.
 
AllDodge, that's the type I was discussing. I have all three types and use the CDI (snap on) for tires. The clicker type (micrometer) operates with a spring held fulcrum and if left tensioned over time the spring becomes weaker leading to under torqued fasteners. I torque EVERY lug nut I handle. I'll run them on with an impact but final is always with a torque wrench. Cannot take a chance on wheels or anything else for that matter coming loose or fracturing due to under or over torque. The most common mistake is actually to over torque by as much as double the correct amount. Aluminum wheels after a few miles should be re torqued (very few people come back).
The tool loaner program is pretty good for occasional use.
 
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Tool loaner program is great, just not so sure about torque wrenches, never know how they were treated and if they are within spec
 
I never bother with the torque wrench on the B3 prop nuts . . . I just get them tight and then a wee bit more. Marine grease is your friend, and when you go to take the props off at the end of the season, make sure to clean the exposed threads with a fine wire brush before trying to remove the prop nuts, then re-grease the threads. The hardware will come along a lot easier.
 
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