Winterize 496 HO's


W

weekend warrior

New member
Can anyone give me the quick easy way to winterize their 496 HO's. I have winterized several boats in the past but they all have had strainers which made the process and pulling the correct hose simple. I'm having a hard time figuring our which hose to pull and how to draw antifreeze through it. Pics would be fantastic. Also, where is the impeller located on these engines. Thanksin advance.
 
I would have a dealer winterize my boat. It is cheep insurance. I had a case last year guy saved a buck on his single 280 BR, ended up costing him $18,000 the next spring. What happened was one of the grommets in the heat exchanger failed, mixing raw water with the antifreeze. The guy who winterized it for him did not test the antifreeze (like you would in your car) therefore the motor froze and broke. Had we done the job we would have caught the grommet, turned it in on warranty and not had a problem. If we didn't catch the problem he could have came back on us to replace the motor, but his buddy wasn't about to pay and since it was not winterized proper warranty and insurance both would not cover the repair. Theres my 2 cents.
 
Troy,
Thanks for your input but I, like some others, feel that going to a dealer is not always the best answer and definitely not the cheapest. Replaced my water faucet in the cockpit sink this year. $109.00 from the dealer, $35.00 factory direct. Took 10 mins to change, dealer wanted another 60 bucks for that plus a service call. I agree in some cases the first call should be to the dealer but not for winter lay-up. Winterization is not rocket science, it's just about making sure all steps are taken.

After all routine engine maintence is complete...oil, filter, fuel/water filter...I have drained the block by removing all the blue plugs. Is that sufficient or does the block have to have antifreeze in it as well. Id so what do you guys recommend to get it into the block. Do you pull the suction hose on the water pump and let it draw antifreeze into the block? Do you use ears and suck it out of a 5 gal bucket?
 
Geesh guys, Some of the people who own boats can are mechanically inclined and can follow shap manual directions correctly, they just need a point in the right area. I suggest getting a shop manual for your engine/outdrive etc. As far as engine alingement etc. again the shop manual or OEM information will have a yearly schedule for items like that. My next suggestion would be to go to a larger more used website/forum, there are tons, use google.

TLR
 
weekend warrior said:
Troy,
Thanks for your input but I, like some others, feel that going to a dealer is not always the best answer and definitely not the cheapest. Replaced my water faucet in the cockpit sink this year. $109.00 from the dealer, $35.00 factory direct. Took 10 mins to change, dealer wanted another 60 bucks for that plus a service call. I agree in some cases the first call should be to the dealer but not for winter lay-up. Winterization is not rocket science, it's just about making sure all steps are taken.

After all routine engine maintence is complete...oil, filter, fuel/water filter...I have drained the block by removing all the blue plugs. Is that sufficient or does the block have to have antifreeze in it as well. Id so what do you guys recommend to get it into the block. Do you pull the suction hose on the water pump and let it draw antifreeze into the block? Do you use ears and suck it out of a 5 gal bucket?
Click to expand...

Your block already has antifreeze in it. It has closed water cooling. What I was talking about is you have to test that antifreeze to be sure it is safe and won't freeze over the winter. AS far as having RV antifreeze run through your raw water system I feel this is very important because it has a small amount of lubrication to keep things from drying out. Do this through the Hose that comes off the transom asy. or through your fresh water engine flush.

Now Dealer, or no Dealer I know times are tough, but you bought the best boat money can buy. Why would you take a chance on something as important as winterizing your pride and joy. Even if you think you can do it yourself why would you want to worry till spring wether or not you did it right. There are some circomstances were you could still do it right, but actually not do it right. In this case that is when the dealer would have to stand behind it. I have had a circumstance like that myself, were I pulled a plug and no water came out do to calcium deposit and did not no to run a screw driver up to release the water. Had there not been a tech with me that motor would have froze and broke. Also look at bigross with his first 260, the dealer showed him how to pump the water out, but not to release the pressure so the boat sank. I am the worst about paying someone to do an expensive job I know I can do myself, but this is one that you screw up it will cost you a ton more than you saved.
 
We agree with everyone that recommended you utilize the professional expertise of your dealer/service center All of us have invetsed a great deal of our retirement inrto our pasion. Now isn't the time to scrimp on serviing of boats. Just doesn't make any sense to us. Turn this over to the experts & relax. That's what they're paiid to do.
 
Hey Troy,

It can go both ways:

I know someone at our marina who owns a 40 PC. He had the dealership take care of his winterization needs. As it turned out, they only winterized one of the engines during the process. He subsequently lost part of the next season waiting on completion of repairs once the oversight and associated damage was discovered.

Things happen, but that had to hurt........for both parties!
 
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