Winter Work


S

SabrToothSqrl

Well-known member
Starboard was impossible to start. Oil in water, and no compression on 3/8.
I haven't compression tested port yet. Ignorance is bliss.

I did do some work over the last few days. Starboard is almost ready to come out. Waiting on a friend with a truck and a crane.

Port... I guess I'll do a compression test.
Both are getting new manifolds and elbows.
Drives being painted.

and lots of other stuff to fix. Didn't really want to do an engine this winter, but I guess the boat had other plans. Maybe if I did the manifolds and elbows last winter this would not have happened. (I planned to do it fall 2019)... good times.

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Exhaust Manifolds x 4 ordered.
Exhaust Elbows x 4 ordered.
Drive Coupler ordered.
Starter ordered. (x2?)

When I pull the engine I need to get the bilge pumps info.
 
I have thought about closed loop cooling since the day I started boating in salt water. Last boat was over 30 years old in fresh water and had so much less rust it wasn't funny. The exhaust elbows had less than a MONTH on them and have heavy rust (Barr). I'm not sure I'll be buying Barr stuff again.

Last night I went to do a compression test on Port. (engine that works). Spark plug broke off in 1. Did the test anyway, and found zero compression on 2/8. (couldn't test 1).

So, I'm pulling port! I'm 40% there with the manifolds and elbows off anyway... might as well just be done with it.
2 new engines, new couplers, new starters. Get another 20 years out of all that.

I'll change the manifolds and elbows at the 4 year mark. Sell boat at the 10 year mark.

If I planned to keep the boat past 10 years, I'd be all over full hydro steering and closed loop cooling. If I can walk away from this thing for $30-40k in 10 years, I'll be happy. (and on my next one).

Now that I've done so much to this one, I know what to look for in the next one. I'll be going over it with my own fine tooth comb, and paying someone to inspect it as well.

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$600 for a HE and no need to replace mans in 4 years, and boat will be worth more for resale.
Winterization will be a snap
 
Michigan Motorz called me, spent half hour making sure I was good to go on the order. Great customer service!

We discussed closed cooling. Given that I only plan to keep the boat another 10 years, and I flush the engines after every run... I don't see me doing it to this boat...

I'll get more pics as things go along!
 
I wouldn't unless something doesn't look right.
Look close at the rear mounts, if there good, you should be fine
 
Regarding closed cooling . . . after having engines with closed cooling, I don't think I'd ever want engines without it.
 
What is everyone using to seal the gaskets between the exhaust manifolds and the elbows? I got sierra manifolds so they have silver gaskets to the elbows. I'm told you do not need anything between the manifolds and block.. but what about the elbows? Factory Manual says to use High Temp anaerobic gasket maker, which I did last time I did this.

is that correct, or have things changed? Thanks.
 
AllDodge said:
I use the merc gasket and locktite 510

Check for flatness of man and elbow, max .003
Click to expand...

Thanks. that's what the manual says too.

LOCTITE® 510 is a high temperature resistant anaerobic sealant which cures when confined in the absence of air between close-fitting metal... High temperature resistant flange gasket. For metal flanges. Adapts to flange surface irregularities and scratches up to 0.25 mm.
 
Power Steering... split?

So, I noticed that the power steering system is split between engines..?
Port engine has the ram, while Strb has the pump... anyone know why? I'm tempted to move the pump to port then it's all one one engine... I don't know why formula did this.. do you?

Thanks... just thinking it would keep things all in line in the engine bay... both engines have coolers, but only one is used. the other is just looped back to it's self.
 
Mostly in previous twin installs both would have pumps and coolers, but only one would be connected to the ram, the other would just circulate fluid. The PS pump had to stay in place for V belt because it was use to rotate the circulating water pump. The good part is if the PS pump went bad, you could just switch to the other pump. The cooler remains to make the connection but can be replaced with just a tube

Later serpentine belt designs allowed the PS pump to be removed with a shorter belt or with adding a idler pulley. The bad, is the motor cost the same for you and I if replacing but a manufacture may be able to get it for a bit less

Only reason I can see to split it as on your boat would be they could use shorter hoses, and keeps the hoses from laying alongside the PS cooler.
 
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